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Need bata for approch and route recognition: Finger Trip
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By kman154
From Versailles, KY
Jun 11, 2012

Does anyone have any bata on Finger Trip, El Whampo, or Left Ski Track. Looking for Route recognition and approch help. Will only have a few days and do not want to spend it looking for the routes.

Any additional bata is welcome that will make my experience more enjoyable.

Plan on camping in Idyllwild.


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By randy88fj62
Jun 11, 2012
Thunderbolt Peak in the Palisades

Fingertrip is self explanatory and is easy to find. We found it using the falcon guide book with no problem. Standard rack should be fine with a couple of doubles in the .5-2.5 in range if you want to zipper it up.

Left Ski Track is even more obvious to find and has some interesting slab moves at the start to reach the dike / crack.

If you read the route beta on this website and print a mini guide you should be fine. A standard rack with no specialty gear will get you up those two routes. I cannot comment on El Whampo since I haven't been up it yet. I wsa there this weekend and the weather was great and breezy on the climbs keeping us cool.


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By JonM
Jun 11, 2012
On the descent of the West Ridge of Conness

Just as important if not more important than route beta is descent beta. I've met more than a few people if who have had an epic trying to get off the rock. I would do some research on this. Hopefully someone will be up top who can show you the friction descent route.
There are some photos and a brief description here: Also a pic of Left Ski Track

jonclimbingon.blogspot.com/2010/06/all-trails-lead-to-tahqui>>>


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By kman154
From Versailles, KY
Jun 11, 2012

Thanks guys, Any other info on the decent will be helpfull. I will look around.

Do you know of any good topos of these routes?

What is the mini guide that you speak of?


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By kevin deweese
From Oakland, Ca
Jun 11, 2012
Birds and Beards

Really nice pictures on that site of the start of the friction descent. Once you find the right boulder and the first downclimb (in the pictures) it's relatively easy from there (in the daylight)

"Left" means on the opposite side from the camera. Go around the boulder vie the left side, not around the front/right side.



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By John Hegyes
From Las Vegas, NV
Jun 11, 2012
South of Windy Peak

To identify the start of Fingertrip, you probably want to pay close attention to the these photos here on MP:

Jonny, Bretts, and Gigi's first time ever in Tahquitz. What a great place with beautiful rock! <br /> <br />Jonny leading pitch one. Brett lookin' like a pirate.  <br /> <br />Taken 6/13/07
Jonny, Bretts, and Gigi's first time ever in Tahquitz. What a great place with beautiful rock!

Jonny leading pitch one. Brett lookin' like a pirate.

Taken 6/13/07

First pitch of Fingertip.
First pitch of Fingertip.

Darshan solos Fingertrip
Darshan solos Fingertrip


This is how I remember getting to the base of Fingertrip. You hike up to Lunch Rock and head right, where the trail first touches the base of the rock, that is where Fingertrip starts, behind the tree as pictured above. If you continue along past Fingertrip, the trail begins going uphill along the base of the crag, evetually passing Traitor Horn and Open Book.

One thing to pay close attention to on the first pitch of Fingertrip, it's real easy to get suckered into heading left at about a third of the way up the pitch. Don't do this, you'll end up on "Crimes of Passion" 5.11b.

Go for it, Fingertrip is one of the best 5.7 climbs around.


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By kman154
From Versailles, KY
Jun 12, 2012

Everyone thanks a lot for the info. My subject may be a bit misleading. I am also hoping to get on "Left Ski Track" and "El Whampo" as well. Any bata on those.

This is great stuff and I am just trying to be prepared. I hate getting to crag only to have to hunt a few ours for stuff. I only have 3 days so I want to make the best it.


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By FrankPS
From Atascadero, CA
Jun 12, 2012

Kman,

Sounds like you need a guidebook? A guidebook, combined with MP descriptions, will provide all the "beta" you need.


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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Jun 12, 2012

Seriously. Just buy or borrow a guide. Tahquitz is a big rock. You'll need to do a lot more than find your way to the base of the route.

Ask you can tell, people on this site are often very happy to provide information. But don't make them do all the work for you.


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By kman154
From Versailles, KY
Jun 12, 2012

Yes, I understand. I have the guide book coming in the mail. That was not my intent at all.

I was looking for information that maybe the locals know but the guide book will not provide. The Red River Gorge guide book here is wonderfull and I know the gorge well but the Linville Gorge guide book totally SUCKS and has led me on a few wild goose chases.

I appreciate your comment and was simple looking for additional bata. Sorry to mislead anyone.


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By RNclimber
From Riverside, Ca
Jun 12, 2012
Seconds before onsighting Gun Smoke V3, Joshua Tree bouldering

Left ski track is a very obvious line. right when you finish the descent it will be on your right hand side (obviously). Just look at the photos on MP and you can't miss it.

mountainproject.com/v/left-ski-track/105799854

3rd pitch does wonder a little bit. After you clip the bolt (place a really long runner) and pass the crux slab, move up about 10-15 feet then traverse left on v-easy moves. I only place two pieces after the bolt before I get to the top and build my anchor to help decrease rope drag.


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By Brad W
From San Diego
Jun 12, 2012

The guide for T&S has been pretty good IME and if you have it in hand you'll no problems. If you have a smartphone might as well download the free MP info as well.

For LST, see the start here: mountainproject.com/v/105978252

Go right past lunch rock, past Fingertrip, and keep going around the rock towards the friction descent. You'll pass Open Book then shortly come to the view in the picture above--big tree, slab between you and the vertical rock, and 2 ski track looking cracks on the rock with jugs between them. Rope up at the tree. Have fun.


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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Jun 12, 2012

No worries kman. I was just concerned that you were planning on heading up there based only on what info you got from this thread. The guide is well done and at least Fingertrip and L. Ski Track are pretty straightforward. Stuff on the N. Face (where El Whampo is) can get jumbled, but most of the climbing is pretty moderate even if you wander some. Still, Tahquitz is an adventure. Be open to it and you'll have a great time.


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By kman154
From Versailles, KY
Jun 12, 2012

I spell data a lot at my job sorry I cannot spell "beta" correctly on any of my previous post. I just noticed.


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By kman154
From Versailles, KY
Jun 15, 2012

I got my guide book but am not sure about the legen for the topos.

Does the circle with the number in it indicate pitch?

Other then that it is not bad.


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By Brad W
From San Diego
Jun 15, 2012

The circles with a number inside indicate belay number. So (1) would be where you build the top belay anchor for the first pitch (if you follow the guidebook pitches).


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By Chris D
From the couch
Jun 16, 2012
Sign near the Third Flatiron

The guidebook for Tahquitz isn't the best. It's pretty good, but if you're used to guidebooks that get you to the exact spot of the crag with great photos of the start of every climb, you're going to be a little disappointed.

If you're there on a weekend, you can get help finding the right trail, the start of your route, and the descent by asking other climbers for a hand. Even with great photos, you're going to have a hell of a time finding the friction descent. If, for some reason, you can't find anyone to help you find it, remember that you can just keep going up...the descent from the rock's true summit is obvious and easy. Just head for the notch to the south and at the notch go right if you came up the Lunch Rock trail, left if you came up the other way.

A tip on Fingertrip... Be careful to NOT get on "The Slab" which is the left-facing corner just left of Fingertrip. If you do, you'll get a lot more than you bargained for. Also, don't be upset if you get lost on the second pitch of Fingertrip...about half the people who climb it for the first time end up on Fingertip Traverse by the end of P2.

The third pitch of El Whampo (if you follow the guidebook) includes a 20-foot runout above the roof on cool xenoliths.

The Left Ski Track is easy to find, and the line is easy to follow. On the third pitch, just take the path of least resistance, which goes out an easy ledge to your left near the top.

You might want to save Fingertrip for another visit if you're new enough to guide books that you're not familiar with the belay symbol...


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By William Nelson
From Cave Creek, AZ
Jun 16, 2012

I wish I had that picture of friction descent when I did Tahquitz, it's really hard to find and that picture will make it easier. If you miss it, you have to go to the summit and then down which takes considerably more time (45 min- hour to lunch rock)

Also, on the second pitch on Fingertrip it is diffficult to find the traverse. I couldn't find it and ended up on Fingertip traverse (5.3) Later I was told you traverse left at the water streak about 40 feet into second pitch.

I'm planning on doing it again, the Dihedral at 2/3 up on first pitch is awesome. Any beta on traverse left would be appreciated.


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By kman154
From Versailles, KY
Jun 18, 2012

What do the .7 .8 etc. numbers mean along the routes on the topos in the guide book? I also notice sometimes there are circles with no number but opt. next to it. I would assume that is an option for a belay or that enough routes come together there that number the pitch would be silly.

Overall I find the guide book to be pretty good but the legend could definatly use some work.


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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Jun 18, 2012

Brad W wrote:
The circles with a number inside indicate belay number. So (1) would be where you build the top belay anchor for the first pitch (if you follow the guidebook pitches).


Not always true, and from recollection (guidebook is at home), the crag topos in the Tahquitz/Suicide guide are route numbers...like the Vampire is route 78 or something, Open Book route 97 (these aren't correct numbers I'm using, just made up numbers for the sake of illustrating my point).

On a topo with a single route, yes it will typically be belay/pitch number, but not on a crag/area topo.


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By FrankPS
From Atascadero, CA
Jun 18, 2012

kman154 wrote:
What do the .7 .8 etc. numbers mean along the routes on the topos in the guide book?


Those numbers are the difficulty on that particular pitch or section (".7" = 5.7)

Do you have an experienced mentor you climb with that could teach you these things? You really should know how to read a topo before you take on these climbs yourself.


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By kman154
From Versailles, KY
Jun 18, 2012

I think some of you are missing out on the differences in guide books. I am well aware of how grades work and what pitches are and how to plug gear. I think the issue hear is that there are many symbols and texts on the topos that are not explained in the legend, which you take for granted because you are a local or use the guide quite often.

As a map maker, I understand and know that rule one of making maps is: if it is on the map explain it in the legend.

Safety is a number one concern and I appreciate everyone for looking out. I do not want to get into a debate over guide books. I just would like additional help understanding this one because to me it is not straight forward in areas. This would be unnecessary if all guides were like the one I am used to. But then if they were all the same what would be the need for this forum.

I am more then confident that I can climb above the grades of the routes I mentioned. But please do not fault me for wanting to understand better from those of you who frequent the area. Thank you all who have help to answer my questions. If you all ever climb at Red River Gorge, KY please feel free to look me up.


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