NEED ADVICE SHOULD OMEGA LINK CAMS- ARE THEY WORTH THE PRICE?

I am debating on buying 4 Omega link cams. I am getting them for $60 per cam they have never been placed . What do you think, are they worth the price, how much would they go for on MP for sale ad? is the durability comparable to a rock empire cam?
Thanks

If you don't have any cams I definitely wouldn't do it. They have great range but that means that when you place one you have a big range gap in your rack. At $60 they might take the place of your doubles but that's about it.

Everyone one I know who has bought these has regretted it and ended up selling them.

"Everyone one I know who has bought these has regretted it and ended up selling them."

I had (just sold) the smallest size, seldom placed it. some times they can be useful for anchors due to the expansion range, but honestly they suck.

No

Good for anchor pieces, they serve a wide range for unknown belay sizes. not very durable, also pretty heavy.
all in all theyre good for supplementing your rack.

Yes. Having a few along with your normal rack is great when you don't know what to expect for gear as they come in handy when you're short pieces and need something to fit. If your route is all mapped out and you can bring the perfect stuff with you then you can do without them.

They've saved me a couple times, held falls, and I haven't ever got one stuck like most people seem to. Tell your friend I'll buy them if you don't want to. I don't even own them but some partners do and I've been impressed. A whole rack of them would be annoying though because they're pretty heavy.

They also work better in flares than standard cams (obviously not better than offsets)

Sweet and thanks for all you help. I am convinced about the performance the cam an how a climber and optimize the use of the cam while climbing. But all in all how is the price at $60 could I ask for a lower price or am I lowballing him cause the sell for over $100 but there selective cams. Some people love em some people hate em

If they really are mint condition that's a good price. I get a prodeal through SAR and would still have to pay more.

Of course it's all just opinion, but that's mine

If you already have 2 sets of cams, and you think you will use them then it might make sense. $60 seems a good price.

An example of when they can be useful would be The Nose for someone with little aid experience. This has lots of deep cracks and can be crack jummared on two sets of link cams on most pitches. This means you can use your other cams as pro. This means you will never be thinking that you need to excessively back clean in case you need a certain piece for progression. If you do get worried you can even start leaving wires as pro as you won't be weighting them.

I have been up the Nose with someone new to climbing and this approach worked well, and was a great calming influence.

If however you only free climb limestone or gritstone, there are many better cams.

All the best.

I think they're perfect for an alpine route where you might want to protect short sections. With 3-4 cams, a couple nuts and a 30m rope, I'm good for an exploratory trip that might have some technical sections.

Price seems pretty good to me!

I only have the red one, and I love it. Sure I don't place it as often, but it's what I reach for when I get desperate. Covering such a broad range, it backs the rest of the rack well.

I also sport an old set of Rock Empire Comets, and enjoyed those till I upgraded to BD's. Now they are on the lower stress aid rack, and will flop on into a new career.

$60 is a decent price... I'd offer $200 or less and haggle, unless this is a pal.

IME in North Conway NH had four for $50/cam back in March. I thought about buying them but everyone I was with said no. I'm sure the Link cams have their place but that money could be spent better... Even if it's just spent it on climbing over a long weekend.

Bill Kirby wrote:IME in North Conway NH had four for $50/cam back in March. I thought about buying them but everyone I was with said no. I'm sure the Link cams have their place but that money could be spent better... Even if it's just spent it on climbing over a long weekend.

turn it into a bumper sticker- "friends dont let friends buy link-cams"

I'd buy it.

I really like my link cams, but, after all the stories I have relinquished them to my spare rack. I like the flexibility, range, how well they fit in a variety of places.

gblauer wrote:I really like my link cams, but, after all the stories I have relinquished them to my spare rack. I like the flexibility, range, how well they fit in a variety of places.

Spare rack?? What's that??

To address the fragile reputation. I keep that in mind when I place mine. I don't place it low or early, as I have other gear to use, save it for higher up where fall factors are lower and I have lots of backup. I try to get purchase with the inner lobes to minimize the failure chances. Only when doing the desperate 'cam cram' do I use the upper end of the range.

It is a tool that needs careful consideration. I'm not sure I would feel very comfortable climbing on them exclusively. I totally understand those who dislike them. Everyone's a little different. Trad climbing is an Art, pick the brush you like and paint your vision.

Craig Childre wrote:To address the fragile reputation. I keep that in mind when I place mine. I don't place it low or early, as I have other gear to use, save it for higher up where fall factors are lower and I have lots of backup. I try to get purchase with the inner lobes to minimize the failure chances. Only when doing the desperate 'cam cram' do I use the upper end of the range. It is a tool that needs careful consideration. I'm not sure I would feel very comfortable climbing on them exclusively. I totally understand those who dislike them. Everyone's a little different. Trad climbing is an Art, pick the brush you like and paint your vision.

This right here is why I don't recommend them to anyone UNLESS they're crack jumarring. It's one thing to accept strength or "holding" limitations because the piece is the ONLY thing that will work in that spot (micro wires, micro cams etc). It's completely another to opt to not use a piece, even though it most certainly will fit, because design limitation make it more prone to failure.

I have the full set. Carry them occasionally on routes I dont know all that well, and usually save them for building anchors on multi-pitch. Nice not to have to worry about conserving gear on a pitch when you are not sure what you might need to build a belay. I will also carry them on alpine routes this summer. Where you are only carrying a small rack and placing a couple of pieces on a pitch the range they give you with only four pieces is nice. Probably just take them and a half set of nuts. I too got a deal on them. Would not have paid full price.

Devin77 wrote:I am debating on buying 4 Omega link cams. I am getting them for $60 per cam they have never been placed . What do you think, are they worth the price, how much would they go for on MP for sale ad? is the durability comparable to a rock empire cam? Thanks

Here is why nope

To me the real problem (in addition to the wonkyness of the placements and the fact that they are delicate) is that they are both heavy and expensive. Even if they covered 50% more range than other cams, they weigh and cost 50% more. So basically you could have 3 regular cams or two link cams, and both of these cover approximately the same area. It's a no brainer to me which is better.

I don't really buy the arguments about using it for anchors. In that case, with all the time in the world to build an anchor, I would highly prefer to use tricams/hexes that weigh and cost 1/4 of a cam. It seems like the range is basically wasted in using it as an anchor.

Finally, the cincher is that the range advantage is less than dramatic. In fact, it looks like its less than 50% in most cases.

I feel like these guys are soon to be or already historical or antique gear.

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