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Need advice about regular prescription glasses

Original Post
Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974

I've been wearing/abusing contacts pretty exclusively for about 20 years, but it's starting to catch up to me. I want to buy a pair of glasses I can use climbing (if absolutely necessary), but it's been so long since I even wore glasses at all, much less while climbing, that I have no idea what to look for.

Helpful advice would be appreciated!

I wear bifocal contacts, nearsighted about 4.5 diopters. Have needed reading glasses for a few years, unless I have my "near vision" contacts in.
Can adjust to about a 2 diopter difference between eyes to get both (compromise) near and far vision.

Do I want big lenses, small lenses, photochromatic, steel, plastic, bifocals or?

I really want to be able to see distance to size up routes, but still need to see my feet and ideally, see gear placements too.

JeffL · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 65

Not much on what you're asking, but check out zenni optical .com for cheap glasses. I think my total was under 50 dollars shipped

teece303 · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 596

You'll want bigger lenses, up to the style you can tolerate. Big, 1980s style behemoth lenses offer the best field of view and the most eye protection, if you can tolerate that level of awful style.

Get a pair of croakies: when I forget mine, it sucks. I've knocked my glasses off with the rope before. Luckily it was in the gym and they were ok.

If you bolt at all: beware! DON'T touch your lenses until you are at home and they are doused in water. Rock dust is very sharp, it gets all over your glasses, and it will ruin them if rubbed.

If possible, get three pairs: a stylish, everyday pair. A sport pair that you expect to beat up a bit (also a backup), and a pair of prescription sunglasses.

Just barely getting to the stage where I need bifocals, so I can't offer much advice on that yet.

Anti-reflective coating: GET IT! It's expensive, but the lenses are so much nicer.

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

+1 for Zenni...good place.

have you tried a new brand of contacts ? I have been wearing since '77 and the newer, disposables are great. get a 24 hr wear and take them out at night, works great

scrambled bacon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 10

Larger the lenses, the better. Hipsters brought them back, especially the black framed ones, so they're "in" again.

+1 for what teece said about croakies, especially on top rope.

You'll definitely want more than one pair. I wore out an old pair of wileyx transitions. Mind you I got them for rescue work(when I was an EMT), shooting and other hobbies that eye pro was needed. Price was justified several times.
Now I wear some generic black frame ones(I♣hipsters) for casual wear.
Actual glass for the lenses offers a much more crisp and clear view but you want to be more careful cleaning them and if dropped are more likely to crack.
I did splurge on a pair of oakley crosslinks where you can swap the lenses out. For these I have a pair of clear and polarized ones. The difference between my oakleys(glass) and my everyday ones(some sort of plastic) is definitely noticeable, but the oakleys are too "sporty" for casual wear.

I'd swing by your local optician and try out the frames before ordering online.

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974
john strand wrote: have you tried a new brand of contacts ? I have been wearing since '77 and the newer, disposables are great. get a 24 hr wear and take them out at night, works great
Good idea. I have been using the two week extended wear lenses which are pretty permeable, but maybe there's something better.
I could usually wear them for the full two weeks, but not now!
john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

Air Optix is a one month lense that easy lasts longer if you take it out nightly

$24 a box at ACLens

reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125

I'd rather deal w/ taking out & putting in contacts when I'm not on a trip than w/ glasses. I use air optix, which supposedly can last a whole month, although I don't think I've ever worn them for more than a week at a time. Clear Care hydrogen peroxide based contact solution really help freshening them up after extended wear.

Scott E. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 20

My daughter just started wearing "CRT" contact lenses. She does it for halting progressive myopia, but anyone can use them. They are completely science fiction to me. (I had never heard of these things before) You wear them only at night, sleeping. In the morning you take them out and wear NOTHING.

My daughter went from -4.00 diopters (something like 20/300 or so), to 20/15 during the day, with no corrective lenses, in one week. She can function just fine with the lenses in also.

They're a bit pricey, and she does it as "braces for her eyes", so-to-speak, but WOW, the results are incredible.

mark felber · · Wheat Ridge, CO · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 41

Based on 50+ years of wearing eyeglasses:
Definitely get some kind of retainer (Croakies, etc.). If you're getting bifocals, look into the graduated focus glasses, they're really nice. The anti-reflective coating is money well spent.

I'm not convinced that a large diameter lens is all that necessary, my current pair are a smaller diameter than the many pair before that and I haven't had any problems.

If you get prescription sunglasses, watch them carefully, especially if they're nice looking. There are people in this world who will steal what they think is a cool looking pair of shades, you'll be out an expensive pair of glasses and the shades they stole won't do them any good. I've lost 3 or 4 pair of high quality prescription sunglasses that way over the last 20 years or so.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

For normal rock climbing you dont need wide lenses ... Ive never owned wide lenses and use the thin "trendy" glasses just fine

One thing that is useful is lenses that change tint hen its sunny ... Saves carrying sunglasses

An anti scratch coating and the thinnest lenses you can get also help

The most important thing is to get a retainer so you dont drop em

Ive always worn normal glasse just fine climbing

;)

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

I've been near sighted for years but just had to get a new prescription since I can see neither near nor far anymore. I got progressives, which are pretty much lineless bifocals. The lenses are graduated so there's no clear line between near and far. I did have to get a slightly larger lense, but I'd say they're pretty average size as far a lenses go. Definitely smaller than anything you saw someone wearing in the '80s. Mine cost a bundle, in part because of my prescription and that they're progressives.

mark felber · · Wheat Ridge, CO · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 41
allaboutvision.com/lenses/h…

High refractive index lenses eliminate the "Coke bottle bottom" look. They also weigh less, which is more comfortable on your nose. The reduced mass also reduces fogging issues when glasses are worn under goggles, or when transitioning from cold areas to warm areas.
teece303 · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 596

Let me just say: you will get used to any glasses you wear.

But there *absolutely* is a difference between large lenses small lenses. Any one that tells you differently is confused. Keep that in mind when you pick frames. I'm speaking from experience.

My current lenses are medium sized.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
teece303 wrote:Let me just say: you will get used to any glasses you wear. But there *absolutely* is a difference between large lenses small lenses. Any one that tells you differently is confused. Keep that in mind when you pick frames. I'm speaking from experience. My current lenses are medium sized.
Guess ive been doing it all wrong then

If you need those big lenses to lead those 5.8 trad climbs then so must everyone else !!!

;)
teece303 · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 596

Big lenses are only the beginning, bearbreeder!

Mike Belu · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 135

I like a style of frame that is more wire-like; and the frame hooks around the ear more than some of the other styles. Lightweight and you don't need the strap to keep them on.

Just my 2 cents

Mike

Thomas Beck · · Las Vegas, Nevada · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,025

I started wearing glasses at 5 years. I'm 67 now. Been climbing about 40 years. 30 years in construction trades. We are talking grinding dust and router debris spray. I had to get bifocals at age 46. I prefer rectangle or aviator style wire rim glasses. They are big at around 54 to 56 mm I get progressive bifocal, anti glare coating, polarized and scratch treatment. I bolt a fair amount. I guided in JT where I did a bit of down climbing for group class top-ropes and found I liked the big lenses. Still, looking down requires a mental adjustment.

I reuse my old wire frames and purchase replacement temple parts as needed; last set cost $65 for a pair. Just got new lenses at Costco for $194 out the door. My prescription and exam was $64.

I have fallen more times than I remember and the glasses stay on. No croakies. I hate croakies. I always mention to the optician these glasses have to stay even if I am hanging upside down after falling off something. They always get the strangest looks.

This spring I fell off my bass-boat - headfirst and backwards into Lake Mead and the glasses stayed on. I have fallen upside down in factor 1 falls and the glasses stayed on. I was in an auto accident and the glasses stayed on. The only time I recall loosing my glasses while climbing was following the 2nd pitch of Reed's Direct where by belayer whipped the rope up into my face wiping the glasses off. Found them later at the base with a broken lens. Driving from the Valley to JT was a bitch but that's another story

Victor K · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2003 · Points: 170

I'm near sighted with a small correction for reading. My regular glasses are progressives with some new technology the limits peripheral distortion. I have a dedicated pair of glasses for climbing. They are distance only. I find that progressive lenses create distortions when your eyes are scanning around a lot and particularly when you are looking down. If you have progressives with any kind of significant correction for reading, then you'll have to tilt your head way down to see your feet.
My climbing glasses have Silhouette frames, an Austrian brand that is made without hinges or frames around the lenses. They are just temples made from springy steel. They weigh 6 grams, I can't even feel them on my face. The lens shape is aviator, which is awesome for climbing, as there is a little extra lens area down low where you need it. They are middle sized, smaller than classic rayban aviators.
Regarding teece303's comment "you will get used to any glasses you wear", I respectfully disagree. Progressives actually made me slightly dizzy when I was doing a lot of side to side or up and down scanning. I was not happy. When glasses cost several hundred dollars, proceed cautiously.

teece303 · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 596

Victor, I meant you can get used to any size glasses only (even though bigger lenses have some obvious advantages).

I have no idea about progressives or bifocals: I've never worn them.

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

I'd agree with Victor. I just got my progressives last week. They are great for both distance and reading, but there is distortion around the periphery. Plus you have to move your head more to utilize different portions of the lenses for different purposes. I am hanging onto to my old pair (of distance only) for outdoor use: biking, climbing, etc. I could make the progressives work for outdoor stuff, but it would be one more thing to have to contend with. Not going to be needing reading lenses on my mt. bike.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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