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 ADVANCED
Isles in the Sky
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Agoraphobia T 
Bee Gees T 
Bee's Knees, The S 
Bird of Fire T 
Celebrated Beast T 
Dead Bees S 
Dolphin T 
Don's Crack T 
Metabolic Frolic T 
Nectar T 
Pinky and the Brain S 
Raven, The S 
Rites of Spring T 
Route 1202 T 
Safety Dance TR 
Save the Last Stance for Me T 
Slam Dance T 
Solar Oven T 
Wedlock T 
White Mamba S 
Wings of Steel TR 
Young Guns T 
Unsorted Routes:

Nectar 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,480
Submitted By: C Miller on Jul 9, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: Nectar, 5.4

Description 

Follow the trail from the parking area to the base of the wall and then third-class up any number of easy cracks to the base of this route-the first crack from the left.

Situated on the same face with Dolphin and Bird of Fire this straight-in crack provides good crack practice or a nice first lead on good albeit rough rock (remember Jumbo Rocks isn't far away). This is one sweet climb...easy but more worthwhile than some other nearby routes that are much harder. If it seems too easy then consider using it as a quick downclimb.

Protection 

Pro to 3", bolted anchor(3/8")


Photos of Nectar Slideshow Add Photo
BROCK ON NECTAR 5.4 SOLO
BROCK ON NECTAR 5.4 SOLO
"Nectar". Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Nectar". Photo by Blitzo.

Comments on Nectar Add Comment
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By Steve Powell
From: Alhambra, California
Mar 20, 2003

fairly easy route. the rap station is(was)poor when I was there in 1998.
By C Miller
Administrator
Mar 20, 2003

All the anchors in the area (Bird Of Fire) were replaced in spring of 1999. The old rap off the south end of the wall is gone although there is a rap right of where Bird Of Fire ends. As a note - it's fairly easy, although somewhat circuitous to downclimb/scramble off the top. Downclimbing this route (Nectar) is another possibilty.
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Mar 20, 2003

Last time I went to climb Bird of Fire (May 2002), there were good bolts on top, but no chains or rap rings. We walked to climber's left and located another set of new bolts (possibly those of Bee Gees?), but again, there were no chains or rap rings. We ended up rapping from here running the rope directly through the bolts and gritting our teeth on the rap down. In retrospect, I'm wondering if the new bolts Chris is referring to are the newer style hangers that are okay to rap off of?
By C Miller
Administrator
Mar 20, 2003

I was there in the fall and all the anchors are there - metolius hangers and rawl bolts I believe, but no rap hangers. The rap near Bird Of Fire is right at the lip and may not be apparent if glancing casually about.
By Josh Beck
Mar 20, 2003

As of March 2003 there is a 2 bolt anchor (but not rap station) atop Bird of Fire. Approximately 10-15' to climber's right at the rounded over edge (just the other side of the bathtub sized hueco from Bird of Fire at the lip) is a 2 bolt anchor and rap station with quicklinks and chains. Single 60m rope reaches.
By BROCKS ROCKS
Jan 18, 2010

This is a great intro to solo climbing. Positive hand jams and very secure. Alot of fun with great exposure.
By Josh Cameron
From: Moab, Colorado
Jul 17, 2011

For a 5.4 offwidth, this thing is fun!!
By Bjorn
From: Near Joshua Tree
Mar 22, 2013

Offwidth? In my book "offwidth" and "pro to 3 inches" are mutually contradictory. Handcrack is more like it.