|Bug Barn Dance Wall
Awesome awesome awesome! Without a doubt, one of the best in the canyon.
Fifth bolted line from the right on the main face. Climbs to the left of Dreamin' of Reamin', which goes over a roof about 20 feet up.
Christian Burrell on Necrobeastiality.
|By Tristan Higbee|
Mar 25, 2008
Great climb! Good moves on crimps. Onsighted it, but it was a definite struggle. Technical crux might be down low, but I had to fight hardest to not peel off at the last bolt. Good rests on giant holds appear right when you think you're about to fall off.
|By Christian "crisco" Burrell|
From: PG, Utah
May 21, 2008
One of the best 11b's in the canyon! You can get a nice rest after each tough part.
|By Kyle Hollenback|
From: Provo, UT
Nov 4, 2011
I've been climbing for a little over a year, and leading has always scared me. This route was the first 5.11 I've led outside. The features are really fun, and the holds and protection are right where you need them. Didn't get the onsight, but I'll be back for sure! There's no single crux, it's just long and sustained. One of the best routes I've done in the canyon. TR would be hard because of rope drag near the chains, but it's a great lead.
|By Canyon Copa|
Jun 23, 2012
Fantastic route. Very long with fun moves and good rests. Clipping the last bolt was the hardest section for me. It was very balancy and pulling the rope up through all the draws almost threw me off. After clipping the last bolt there is a slopey, boulder-type top out where I just had to mantle with my hands and smear with my feet to get to the chains. Also it's not quite 105 feet, a 60 meter rope is plenty long with a lot left over (and that's without the stretch).
|By Tim Moore|
May 2, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Probably close to the best route in the canyon. Very well protected. A fun quasi roof to go over/around and then very crimpy holds with bad feet between awesome jugs/ledges that give great rest. Awesome belay shade spots and the route is in the sun so if it's hot out might not be the best place.