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This route is in the popular 5.8 crack area of Rincon Wall. The route is the broken flake and crack system about a little ways right of 5.8 crack, and just right of the climb Outer Limbits and the huge tree at the cliff base.
This climb ascends a dark, broken flake and crack system with awkward moves and small, difficult, pumpy protection. To descend, rap from the anchor above 5.8 crack.
I waffled briefly about the 'bomb' rating. The route has some bad rock; it isn't terrible, it's just not worth it.
There is some pro, but the rock is not great and the gear is pumpy to place. The gear is a few small [pieces] total. (tiny cams)
You can rig a TR from the tree above 5.8 crack with some swing potential -watch out for the huge tree below.
|By Ivan Rezucha|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jan 1, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
On TR this felt like 10. It would be hard to place gear since the middle section has no good stances.