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Petit Grepon
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Neathawk-Collett T 
South Face T 
Southwest Corner T 
Southwest Face Variation: La Porte de l'Enfer T 

Neathawk-Collett 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 900', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Perhaps J. Neathawk, B. Collett, Sept. 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 542
Submitted By: Ben Collett on Sep 23, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Another photo showing the base of the route, as we...

Description 

This is really a direct start to the SW Corner, but it makes that route feel a lot more entertaining.

1) Climb a steep crack for about 20 feet to a white piece of tat on a ledge. Move left about ten feet to some steep flakes and follow the slightly overhung wall above to a series of left angling ramps that one follows until one can step left to below the obvious corner on the 2nd pitch. 160 feet, 5.10- R.

2) Follow the corner with a nice fingers to offwidth crack until it ends. Then follow easier terrain to a large ledge near the SW arete of the Petit. 120 feet, 5.10-.

3) Follow the arete and corner systems just to the right to a ledge below the groove feature on the arete. 200 feet, 5.7.

From here, three more pitches take you to the top by way of the SW Corner route.


Location 

Identify the very prominent, right-facing dihedral in the gully leading between the Petit Grepon and Sharkstooth that is the Davis-Fowler. About a hundred and fifty feet up, there is a smaller, right-facing dihedral. This is the second pitch of the route. Start about 100 feet down and to the right of the Davis Fowler, below a large boulder.


Protection 

Standard rack to #4 Camalot.



Photos of Neathawk-Collett Slideshow Add Photo
The route is marked in blue.
BETA PHOTO: The route is marked in blue.
A slightly better view of the first few pitches.
BETA PHOTO: A slightly better view of the first few pitches.
Similar photo as previous, exposed for sunlit rock.  Shows the base of the route, as well as the prominent dihedral of the Davis-Fowler.  Sharkstooth on the left, Petit Grepon on the right.
BETA PHOTO: Similar photo as previous, exposed for sunlit rock...
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