Neat 5.10
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b [details] |
| FA: | Charlotte Fox and partner |
| Submitted By: | Bryson Slothower on Mar 24, 2005 |
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at the 1st roof just before the tight hands sectio...
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Description This spectacular route is located pretty much where the trail meets the wall on the Optimator. It is just right of a short tower and shares a start with Hayduke Lives aka. Hayutake. It follows a huge right facing corner system for 100 ft. to a 3 bolt anchor with slings. There is a plaque.
Start out with a low angled shallow hand and finger crack to a large horizontal flake, a lieback move gets you to a ledge at about 20 ft. (.75 to #1 camalot)From the ledge climb 15 ft. of stem box with tips crack on either side. (small TCUs) Above the stem box climb a tight hands corner up to a small roof for about 25 ft. (#0.75 to #1 Camalot) Above the roof climb perfect hands in a corner for 30 ft. (mostly #2 Camalots, 1 #3) Just below the anchor pull the crux roof/bulge. (#2 Camalot)
Protection Small TCUs up to #3 Camalot, extra #2 and #3s.
the whole route
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Haines showing perfect technique.
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Amanda leading Neat
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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Oct 14, 2005
rating: 5.10a
| Great route on a great wall. My gear: blue and yellow aliens for the start, 2x0.75 Camalots, 2x#1 Camalots, 4x#2 Camalots, and 4x#3 Camalots. The blue Camalots are a little tight midway through the final crack. The roof pinches back down to #2 Camalot size right before the chains. |
By Dave Brock
May 19, 2008
| Probably one of the BEST 5.10's that I have ever done. High quality rock, excellent gear placements...And fun route. Highly recommend it as a warm up route for other Optimator Wall routes. |
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 16, 2009
| How does this thing only get 2.5 stars!?!? Get past the initial sandy ramp and into a stellar corner. Hands for the most part. Great route! |
By T. Gittins
From: bozeman
Jan 30, 2011
| would have to agree...better than 2.5 stars...exciting roof near the chains |
By chosspector
From: San Juans, CO
Mar 19, 2012
| FA Casey Yorkunas |
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Apr 23, 2012
rating: 5.10
| #3 friends are the best fit for this corner instead of baggy 2 camalots or tight 3 camalot. |
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