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The Optimator
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Neat 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Charlotte Fox and partner
Page Views: 2,899
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 24, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (108)
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at the 1st roof just before the tight hands sectio...

Description 

This spectacular route is located pretty much where the trail meets the wall on the Optimator. It is just right of a short tower and shares a start with Hayduke Lives aka. Hayutake. It follows a huge right facing corner system for 100 ft. to a 3 bolt anchor with slings. There is a plaque.

Start out with a low angled shallow hand and finger crack to a large horizontal flake, a lieback move gets you to a ledge at about 20 ft. (.75 to #1 camalot)From the ledge climb 15 ft. of stem box with tips crack on either side. (small TCUs) Above the stem box climb a tight hands corner up to a small roof for about 25 ft. (#0.75 to #1 Camalot) Above the roof climb perfect hands in a corner for 30 ft. (mostly #2 Camalots, 1 #3) Just below the anchor pull the crux roof/bulge. (#2 Camalot)


Protection 

Small TCUs up to #3 Camalot, extra #2 and #3s.



Photos of Neat Slideshow Add Photo
Me on Neat.
Me on Neat.
the whole route
the whole route
Amanda leading Neat
Amanda leading Neat
Haines showing perfect technique.
Haines showing perfect technique.
Katie Sheehan belaying Max Rodatz
Katie Sheehan belaying Max Rodatz
Comments on Neat Add Comment
Show which comments
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Oct 14, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great route on a great wall. My gear: blue and yellow aliens for the start, 2x0.75 Camalots, 2x#1 Camalots, 4x#2 Camalots, and 4x#3 Camalots. The blue Camalots are a little tight midway through the final crack. The roof pinches back down to #2 Camalot size right before the chains.

By Dave Brock
May 19, 2008

Probably one of the BEST 5.10's that I have ever done. High quality rock, excellent gear placements...And fun route. Highly recommend it as a warm up route for other Optimator Wall routes.

By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 16, 2009

How does this thing only get 2.5 stars!?!? Get past the initial sandy ramp and into a stellar corner. Hands for the most part. Great route!

By T. Gittins
From: bozeman
Jan 30, 2011

would have to agree...better than 2.5 stars...exciting roof near the chains

By chosspector
From: San Juans, CO
Mar 19, 2012

FA Casey Yorkunas

By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Apr 23, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

#3 friends are the best fit for this corner instead of baggy 2 camalots or tight 3 camalot.