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Neat and Cool
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Unsorted Routes:

Neat and Cool 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: David Lane and Perry Beckham, 1979
Page Views: 2,871
Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Jan 20, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (70)
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Peter Croft halfway up Neat and Cool
Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route climbs the steepest section of the Neat and Cool crag and is named for the now barely readable graffiti at its base.

The steepness of the route, the slippery start and fiddly initial protection makes this route a stiff lead for the grade. It initially diagonals up and left on a finger rail, then traverses back to the right on big holds. At the end of this traverse an underclinging jamming crux leads to a fine but all too short hand crack.


Protection 

A couple of medium nuts and finger sized cams (maybe even tricams) protect the start. Hand and fist sized cams for the remainder. Bolted anchors are easily found at the top. The bolts are set up for belaying, not lowering, so walk off the back side.



Photos of Neat and Cool Slideshow Add Photo
Peter Croft starting up Neat and Cool.
Peter Croft starting up Neat and Cool.
Me on Neat and Cool with the Chief in the background
Me on Neat and Cool with the Chief in the backgrou...
Comments on Neat and Cool Add Comment
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By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jul 2, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

i'd disagree with the poster. the rock is not slippery, and the gear is bomber and plentiful.....its about .10a if you're used to bolts, if you're not, it'll feel a bit harder due to the steep nature of the route.

By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
Nov 11, 2007

It's funny, I did it again a few weeks ago and found it pretty straightforward and not slippery this time. It must depend on the day, the humidity, how you feel, etc. Nevertheless, there have been some serious accidents on this climb so some people find it tough some of the time.

By Alpine Carl
Dec 27, 2007

There is a second set of bolts above the belay bolts Peter mentioned; these are rap-friendly. Rap towards the "road," not the route, for best results.

By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Havertown, PA
Jul 20, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Led this route this past Friday, and the gear couldn't have been better. Great route, nonetheless!

By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 16, 2011

Fun climb for sure. I agree with the PG13 rating for newer trad leaders. After the initial fingers flake you should nest up some pieces before pulling past the horizontal and into the crack above in case you blow it as the initial gear won't keep you off the deck at this point. I've heard of bad accidents on this climb due to ground falls. No problem if 5.10 is routine for you but if it's your limit, stack up the gear in the horizontal. Dont read more if you don't want gear beta, otherwise you can place a #3, red alien and/or solid medium nut side by side to protect that move.

Up higher, I kept left to finish on the slab at top. You need to extend this a long ways for the master point to reach over the lip. Probably better to just go to the right anchor chains above the hand crack.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 4, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Good gear opportunity, but not always easy to see or place I suppose. Juggy big moves are fine with confidence, might lead to stirring anyone who is already shaken.

By Bryan Hall
From: Bend, Oregon
Aug 11, 2012

I definitely disagree with the PG13 rating. Any route can be considered dangerous for a novice leader. There is plenty of pro to stay safe with and despite the comment about accidents occurring here the route should not have a PG13 rating.