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Nearer To Thee 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 320', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Mark Tarrant, Richard Wright, 6/05
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,434
Submitted By: Mark Tarrant on Jun 5, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Perfect belay ledge after pitch 3. Which is the 2n...

Description 

This splendid 2-pitch route starts from the belay atop EOA's second pitch. It climbs the beautiful, exposed face left of the last two pitches of EOA, paralleling Higher Calling, to the top.

Start: Climb the first two pitches of EOA (.10b, can be combined with about 16 clips, 175'), to a semi-hanging belay at two open shuts. An alternative (and better) belay can be found by stepping right one bolt below the EOA open shuts onto a ledge with a chain anchor (This is the P2 anchor for Eternal Sunshine).

Pitch 1: 5.11c, 10 bolts, 2-bolt anchor, 75'. Angle up and left on an 85 degree slab past 4 bolts to the start of a 20' crux section. The wall then steepens but the holds get bigger (.10+) as you reach a sensational belay ledge. (Note: If you start from the ES P2 anchor, you will need two extra draws -- 12 total).

Pitch 2: 5.10d, 9 bolts, 2-bolt anchor, 75'. Climb straight up the steep wall to the crux section between bolts 3 and 5. The crux starts on steep rock, moves right, around an arete and onto a balancy slab. 30' of moderate climbing on a licheny slab leads to the top where you'll find the anchor for EOA about 10' back.

The end of the route is less than perfect, but it's not enough to detract from the overall high quality of the line. The first two pitches of EOA are also surprisingly nice. The appeal of the route is that it gets you all the way up the wall, somewhat moderately, with good protection and superb position. This climb is named in remembrance of my grandfather, L.E.O., 1/8/17--5/31/05, X O.


Protection 

12 to 18 draws depending on how pitches are combined, with 2-bolt anchors after each pitch.



Photos of Nearer To Thee Slideshow Add Photo
Ray Deschesne pulling around the arete - P2 Nearer to Thee
Ray Deschesne pulling around the arete - P2 Nearer...
Ray Deschesne P2 Nearer to Thee.
Ray Deschesne P2 Nearer to Thee.
Jason and Tony at the belay below the last pitch.  EOA is in the corner to the right, WOW is right of that.  Higher Calling is 15' to the left.
Jason and Tony at the belay below the last pitch. ...
It's beautiful and far away from the scene.
It's beautiful and far away from the scene.
A closer view of the cool belay.
A closer view of the cool belay.
It takes 3 clips to get through the crux.  He's almost there.
It takes 3 clips to get through the crux. He's al...
Tony starting the crux sequences.
Tony starting the crux sequences.
Top 2 pitches "Nearer to Thee". The two lower pitches are 5.10 a,b; the middle is a 5.11c; the top pitch is very entertaining 5.10d. These are real ratings, Mark and Richard did a great job. There are many climbs next to this one, and they are all top notch.
BETA PHOTO: Top 2 pitches "Nearer to Thee". The two lower pitc...
Tony balancing through the long crux.
Tony balancing through the long crux.
Happy climber at the top of Ra perfect day. I was looking for Mark on the opposite wall, but no one was there.
Happy climber at the top of Ra perfect day. I was ...
Comments on Nearer To Thee Add Comment
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By Tod Anderson
Sep 28, 2005
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Good route, but probably a bit harder than 11a. The crux was made especially challenging by the somewhat slippery nature of the rock making it hard to just pull real hard to get through. Well bolted.

By orin salah
Jul 7, 2006
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

This is an excellent rock climb! The first pitches feel sustained for 5.10-, but maybe we just weren't warmed up yet. The slab pitch is fantastic, made even more interesting by the fact that there is no line of white chalk marks to follow. Beautiful rock with great moves and incredible position. I wish the rest of the climb was as good, but thankfully it is good enough. I thought the final pitch was a lot of fun too, a real mind opener. Great work on bolting this climb.

By scott e. tarrant
From: Fort Collins
May 21, 2007

Very fun climb. Good sampling of what you will get on other routes at Ra. I would say 5.11c as an on-sight grade. Again and as with other routes here, no move may be harder than 5.11a, but these are pretty relentless stretches of rock. I fell off of some holds big enough to set a stool on and churn butter! Great movement, awesome position and really fun climbing!

L.E.O. XO

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 17, 2007
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I want out with Jason Haas today and did this thing. GREAT climb from top to bottom. I wish we'd gooten to the sloper crux prior to the sun hitting it though. I can imagine that the P3 crux is easier in cool crisp weather, but dang-nabbit, I think it is hard 11 in the sun if it is warm out. Bloody desperate!

By Harald Harb
From: Dumont
Aug 19, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Great route, great climbing, thank you for bolting this. These ratings are more like Rifle or Eldo ratings. Not trying to be picky, but if you are a Clear Creek climber, you better be leading 12s, this is a stiff middle pitch, and it is a thin, sustained onsight. The first pitch is stiff for a 10a leader. Second pitch is 10-. What a treat to have a real alpine rock experience in your back yard. There is no one up there and you are suspended thousands of feet above the Valley. This must be done. Day on RA.

By Harald Harb
From: Dumont
Sep 2, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Diana and I went up there for the second time in two weeks. it's hard to believe there is such excellent climbing in our back yard. This is the real deal , thank you, Mark and Richard for putting up the splendid climbs on RA. Many sport climbers, if you don't hike a little will never experience the true alpine environment. There is no reason to leave these climbs on RA off you list.

By Harald Harb
From: Dumont
Sep 2, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

This is great climbing and a whole world has opened up for Alpine climbing in the upper Clear Creek region, thanks to Mark and Richard.