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YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: A. Miller
New Route: Yes
Season: 4
Page Views: 519
Submitted By: Aaron Miller on Jun 28, 2006
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Josh at the top of Neanderthal, which is also the ...

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Starts in center of Cave in right-facing dihedral. Pull through awkward and pumpy 12b climbing to gain upper face with airy (well-bolted) 11+ technical crux. This climb requires technique that is only found in places like Yosemite. Good all around climbing skills are required as you will encounter crux moves of three distinctively different flavors. Do NOT climb this if you are a wus, though donating another leaver-biner to my collection is always OK by me.


Between Sapien and Cro-Magnon. Climb up slabs to base of roof center, just right of large steep dihedral.


12 to 13 bolts. Use long draws for bolts under steep section to reduce drag.

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By Keith Beckley
Nov 19, 2011
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

Great, yet perplexing moves into the steeps. Relaxing middle....very techy stemming finish...tough last clip.. Awesome route!

By Aaron Miller
Oct 13, 2012

This route now has three fixed-chain draws at the steep start. Now I don't feel so obligated to climb this route every time I see some leaver-booty, and I can climb other routes in the Cave. Sheesh. Must be lots of sport climbers climbing out of their element here.