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Talking Headwall
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Ne Plus Ultra 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
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Page Views: 1,297
Submitted By: Keegan Dimmick on Apr 30, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: TR set up on this route to the right of climber.

Description 

This is the second route from the left at the Talking Headwall. Start on the featured face and climb through a large overhang. Beware of rope drag through the overhangs. Use a longer sling on the last draw before the anchors, the biner can bind against the ledge and open the gate.


Location 

Second route on the left at the Talking Headwall.


Protection 

5 bolts and ring anchors.



Comments on Ne Plus Ultra Add Comment
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By Justin Scott
From: Arlington, VA
Apr 21, 2012

This route is between I Love Big Jugs and Fortis

By Budman252
Jul 7, 2012

Great route. I did this route on gear and no bolts...protects very well.

By MealyM
From: Frankfurt
Sep 22, 2012

Great route - there are 6 bolts actually, not 5. Overhangs were challenging, but there are good holds if you look for them. There was a lot of rope drag, so I would bring at least 2 alpine draws.

By Fan Z.
From: Washington, DC
May 28, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Be careful not to extend too much the draw at the last bolt before the roof/crux. Failure to clip next bolt will result in decking on big ledge half way up the route.