|Type:||Trad, Sport, 11 pitches, 1150', Grade III|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA:||1960 Ruedi + Werner Vieli|
|Submitted By:||Dan Flynn on Dec 12, 2011|
|Comments on NE Grat||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Colin Winter
Jul 24, 2012
Can highly recommend the intro pitch that we followed (there are many options) - begins on the wall left of the tin containing the ascent log, with a "6b" etched in stone at the base of a prominent crack. There are two bolted lines taking off at this point, one following a smaller crack straight up, and the other following a somewhat wider crack that veers a bit more to the right. We took the latter, which goes at around 5c and was a jam fest.
With 2x60m ropes, the rap off the east side was a very quick affair (4x, straight down).
By David A
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 11, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
|This is a really good route, and a fine intro into the longer alpine rock climbs found all over CH. We did it 13 pitches, but could be lead in considerably less, with some simuling. FWIW, the route does not top out on the actual summit of Zerfreilahorn. If you want to get to the actual summit, be prepared to slog over 3rd class for a while once the route tops out.|