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Chinaman's Peak aka Ha Ling Peak aka Beehive
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NE Buttress T 

NE Buttress 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 11 pitches, 1500'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Season: nice weather
Page Views: 2,685
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Mar 9, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Fran Bagenal. Pitch 6 or 7?????

Description 

This is an aesthetic line on a prominent face that stands out in the skyline above Canmore. It is very attractive to the everyperson's climber who looks at the 5.6 grade, 11-12 pitches, 1500 ft of climbing, a direct line to the summit, and says "I'm there." However, there is more than what meets the eye to this climb.

A rope, a helmet, and decent sense of routefinding are advisable for this line. There are stray bolts, stray gear, stray anchors to lead you astray.

This face can gets sun in July and shorts can work. At 10am the route is in full sun.

P1. This is described as 3rd-4th class with optional ropework. I recommend a rope. No pro, low angle, loose rock, 160'. 1 bolt anchor (10y ago). Don't fall.

P2. This continues up with loose rock on ledges, 1 Friend placement, balance required, 160'. 2 bolt anchor. "Loose as sin" is what my notes say. Don't fall! My buddy did, but fortunately it was following.

P3. Pretty much straight up to a 3 bolts belay. Much more solid rock. Route finding apparently can be challenging on this pitch.

P4. Go up and right to a shaded, right-facing corner/groove. A belay that we used is up and right from the top of the groove. 3 bolt belay. There is another, bolted belay to the left that we didn't use. 5.2.

P5. This is a tricky pitch for route finding (probably the crux of route finding). Don't go up and right (that felt 5.8+ R before I downclimbed)! We went down, then traverse left to a ledge, curve up to a groove, to a 2 bolt belay on a ledge.

P6. Angle right, continue past quite a few bolts & pins, go up to a ledge. This may be the crux pitch. 40m, 5.6.

P7. Go up ~7m, then go left, get up under a small roof, continue up to a 2 bolt belay. My notes suggest you may pass a bolt & 3 pins.

P8. Traverse up and right, then go up the right side of a rib, finish in a small, left-facing corner to a 2 bolt belay. 5.5.

P9. Go up a nice, left-facing corner/slab, pass 3 pins, belay at a 2 bolt belay. This is probably the nicest pitch, IMHO. It is easier than it looks. This pitch is in the shade in the afternoon. This sweet photo shows climbing left of the dihedral, although I recall climbing closer to the dihedral at points. 5.5.

P10. Go up and left to a 3 crack corner. This pitch is in the shade in the afternoon. Not quite as nice as P9. 160'.

P11. Take the climb to the top and topout.

We burned about 5 1/2 hours on a casual stroll up getting lost once. Speedier climbers could half that easily.

Descent: slip down the back side on the scree. Alternatively, I've heard you may be able to rap Sisyphus Summits, but we didn't do that.

Note, this climb has taken out a decent number of climbers, so keep your guard up.

Location 

This is the obvious prow up the less-than-vertical NE face. From a distance, the line is obvious, but up close, you can find yourself a bit challenged with the line. Scope it.

Protection 

A set of wires, a set of cams to #4 Friend, 10-12 runners, and a 50m rope works.


Photos of NE Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Don Fry on P10.  Getting close.  Is that an ant do...
Don Fry on P10. Getting close. Is that an ant do...
Looking up near the start of the rock.  Where the ...
Looking up near the start of the rock. Where the ...
Don Fry on P9.  This is getting nice.  c. 1997.  T...
Don Fry on P9. This is getting nice. c. 1997. T...
Don Fry on P2.  Don't fall on lead on this pitch. ...
Don Fry on P2. Don't fall on lead on this pitch. ...
Climbing on what I believe to be P9 of the above d...
Climbing on what I believe to be P9 of the above d...
Don Fry on P4.  Rock gets better as you go higher....
Don Fry on P4. Rock gets better as you go higher....
P6.  Photo by Don Fry.  c. 1997.
P6. Photo by Don Fry. c. 1997.
P9.  Photo by Don Fry.  c. 1997.
P9. Photo by Don Fry. c. 1997.
Don Fry on P6.  c. 1997.  Thanks Ron Keller for yo...
Don Fry on P6. c. 1997. Thanks Ron Keller for yo...
Don Fry on P11.  Ahhh.  c. 1997.  Thanks Ron Kelle...
Don Fry on P11. Ahhh. c. 1997. Thanks Ron Kelle...
Fran Bagenal. Pitch 3? or thereabouts.
Fran Bagenal. Pitch 3? or thereabouts.
Me leading P10 or 11
Me leading P10 or 11
P7.  c. 1997.  Thanks Ron Keller for your help.
P7. c. 1997. Thanks Ron Keller for your help.
Don Fry on P8.  c. 1997.  Thanks Ron Keller for yo...
Don Fry on P8. c. 1997. Thanks Ron Keller for yo...
Ha Ling - Northeast Face Topo. Edited from the onl...
BETA PHOTO: Ha Ling - Northeast Face Topo. Edited from the onl...

Comments on NE Buttress Add Comment
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By Kevin Craig
Apr 26, 2008

On a nice weekend day in the summer, routefinding won't be much of a problem unless you start at dawn. There will be a long line of people in front of you on every pitch of this climb! IIRC all the belays are now (mostly) double-bolted at about 25m intervals. There's a good, if steep, trail down the other side of the mountain. Bring a bandana to survive the dust on the walk back to the parking lot along the road or an attractive climbing partner to facilitate hitching a ride. :^D
By Stu Ritchie
From: Denver
May 7, 2009

"Alternatively, I've heard you may be able to rap Sisyphus Summits" Having done the route, I can say this would be a very foolish and dangerous idea!
By Jordan Ramey
From: Calgary, Alberta
Oct 3, 2011

My gear recommendation: single set of cams to 2", handful of nuts, slings. Only placed the #2 once. There are a couple places you could place the #3, but it' kinda worthless.

Link to PDF of Ha Ling Peak regular Route and some of it's other climbs
banffrock.ca/BVRpdfs/Chinamans...


Length: 12 pitches
Sun Exposure: receives lots of sun
Time: 3 - 5 hours to climb the route
Approach: 45 - 60 minutes
Descent: 1 hours
car-to-car: 6 - 8 hours
Difficulty: 5.6
Rack: Cams to 2", slings, a few nuts