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NC Christmas time climbing
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By Brian Taylor
From Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 10, 2012
On WSU campus

Hey guys, I'm headed out from Salt Lake to North Carolina for Christmas (Visiting the GF's folks) I'm pretty sure we'll be in Raleigh, but I'm more than down for some drive time if it means getting some good climbing in while we're there. My girlfriend is solid following easy trad or leading sport routes 5.9 and under generally. I'm down for some easy trad leads (Though my rack is a little light) or sport routes up into the mid to high 11's.

From what I can see on here, it seems like Crowder's mountain is going to be the place to go, I just wanted to see if you guys had any specific suggestions. Are there any walls that catch more sun than others that I should keep an eye out for?

Any info would be much appreciated. Thanks a bunch!


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By Ethan L
From Santa Barbara, CA
Nov 10, 2012
Alyssa and I at Table Rock in Linville Gorge

Crowder's isn't exactly an ideal location if you want to try out NC climbing. The rock is really sharp, and its a good crag to drive to if you want to make a quick trip from the triangle area. But if you're looking to really check out what NC has to offer, I would suggest Rumbling Bald, Looking Glass, and any of the crags around the Bevard/Ashville area. I know it's a little further, but it's worth it!


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By Brian Taylor
From Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 10, 2012
On WSU campus

Sweet, Thanks for the heads up. So if rumbling bald is on the table.. does anyone know of a place in NC where I could rent a crash pad or two?


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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Nov 10, 2012
El Chorro

+1 to Ethan.

Crowders is nice if you live in Charlotte - otherwise it's not great. If you don't want to do any more driving than that it's OK for a few days. Some good sport lines there.

LG and RB are the best areas that time of year. The Bald is amazing and perfect in December. Sunny all day and lower elevation.

Cook's Wall is sick and usually perfect in December but it's a long difficult approach. You'd probably need a local to show you the area, but it's no more of a drive than Crowders and it is excellent. Mostly moderate and hard sport.

Another option that time of year is Stone. It's probably not as classic as the western granite but it has some excellent lines and if you're into friction slab it is one of the best pieces of rock anywhere. You can definitely travel light if you decide to climb there - a lot of bolted (not sport) routes that you can do w/ a very light rack.

Finally, if the weather allows and you're up for it, Laurel Knob is the largest wall in the east and it is excellent. Several good 5.8's there and loads of 10's. Fathom is a 10a that is mostly 5.8 or below w/ one or two short and well bolted crux sections.


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By Chris Massey
Nov 10, 2012

Moore's Wall seems to be the home crag for a lot of the Raleigh area folks. I climbed there last weekend for the first time in many years. I had forgotton just how good it is. If there is a better 5.7 than Zoo View anywhere in the east I would be surprised. Lots of great trad lines in the 5.7 - 5.10 range, most well protected. Just dont expect to see too many bolts, and some of the decents are a little sketchy. Definately consider it. Moore's is closer to Raleigh than most of the western NC areas and worth a trip. I have heard several folks say that it reminds them of the Gunks. Crowders is my backyard crag so I cannot speak bad of it, but I wouldnt make a trip to climb there.


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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Nov 10, 2012
El Chorro

NCTRAD wrote:
Moore's Wall seems to be the home crag for a lot of the Raleigh area folks. I climbed there last weekend for the first time in many years. I had forgotton just how good it is. If there is a better 5.7 than Zoo View anywhere in the east I would be surprised. Lots of great trad lines in the 5.7 - 5.10 range, most well protected. Just dont expect to see too many bolts, and some of the decents are a little sketchy. Definately consider it. Moore's is closer to Raleigh than most of the western NC areas and worth a trip. I have heard several folks say that it reminds them of the Gunks. Crowders is my backyard crag so I cannot speak bad of it, but I wouldnt make a trip to climb there.


Moore's Wall is the best crag in the world - but it's mostly north facing and very cold in winter. The fire wall does get sun, but there is nothing there under 5.11.

OP, if you get a chance to climb at Moore's, climb there. With the way the weather has been the last few years, anything is possible. People certainly do climb there in December but the moderate areas are usually shady.


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By csproul
From Rancho Cordova, CA
Nov 10, 2012
Summit of Wolf's Head with Pingora in the background

For route clubbing that time of year, you can hit up Pilot, Stone, or Rumbling Bald. Stone is awesome, but it is runnout slab climbing...not much gear needed at all. Moores will prob be pretty cold for route climbing but may be ok for bouldering. Crowders is not worth the drive from Raleigh.

Asheboro is good in winter for bouldering and is probably also the closest area to Raleigh, but would require you to join the CCC to go (well worth it though if you enjoy bouldering). Joining the CCC would prob not be any more expensive than aging for gas to go to RB. Hit me up and I would be happy to go to Asheboro with you. I have a couple of pads and could get an extra if needed.


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By lucander
From Stone Ridge, NY
Nov 10, 2012
Lucander off the GT Ledge on p. 2 of Keep on Struttin.

+ 1 on Stone - the cleanest slab climbing I've done. The rock doesn't have the bumps of Jtree, the knobs of Cochise, or the features of Squamish - but it's the stickiest granite around. It gets really good sun, too! There's pay camping at the crag, a little spendy but the hot shower will give you something to do on a long winter night.


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By Ben Sachs
Nov 10, 2012

If you want to actually have a good time climbing, go bouldering at the Bald. Buy a cheap pad or meet up with people from MP. There will be people there and pads on most classics. All other options will likely be kinda fun but you will either be cold or unimpressed with the climbing (with the exception of perhaps asheboro, but its is not nearly as good as the bald).


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By Brian Taylor
From Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 10, 2012
On WSU campus

You guys are seriously so awesome, I really appreciate all the suggestions. I'm looking at rumbling bald and getting pretty excited about some stuff out there. Asheboro sounds interesting too, but I can't seem to find it on MP.

CSPorul, I'll PM you as it gets closer and we find more stuff out, I might take you up on that offer. :)


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By William Rhyne
From clayton, nc
Nov 10, 2012

trad climber in raleigh if you want to share rides need beta whatever contact me. cheers


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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Nov 10, 2012
El Chorro

If you go to the Bald and it's above 44 you absolutely must climb routes. Bouldering is awesome too, but only when it's too cold to climb.


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By Pierre de St. Croix
From Beaufort, NC
Nov 12, 2012

Pilot Mtn: black rain, devil in the White House

Stone mountain: great arch & 1st pitches of: the pulpit, Dixie crystals & fantastic

Rumbling bald: fruit loops, granola & frosted flake

If you did these at Christmas with the lady you'll come home feeling like hero!


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By Brian Taylor
From Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 16, 2012
On WSU campus

Ok so it sounds like I'm gonna have to make a couple trips to "visit my girlfriend's parents" So i can get into all the climbing this region has to offer.

This time around, it seems I'm only gonna get one day to climb :/ and I'm gonna have to bring my girlfriend's 9 year old sister who isn't hyper athletic and has never climbed before, are there any reasonable crags for this? or should I just look to a gym for answers?

Thanks again and in advance for being so helpful, guys :)


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By Mike Belu
From Indianapolis, IN
Dec 16, 2012
Summit of Rainier.

Go to Pilot. Top rope opportunities for the kid. My girlfriends son did pretty good on some of the 5.6 there when he was 7. All the beta you can ask for is on a site, climbpilot.us. Site was maintained by a great guy, Lloyd Ramsey, who passed away while climbing there earlier this year. RIP.


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By kwyatt
From NC
Dec 16, 2012
SR Edge

Pilot may be crowded.

Looking Glass Southside has several easy moderates and is kind of warm if the weather is nice.


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By ze_dirtbag
From TBD
Dec 16, 2012
cottonmouth

if you're down for a drive, come to the new river gorge.....it's worth the roadtrip


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