If you come around Big Butt from the west Nazi's Demise and Smegma Burns are on the far right or east side of the south face. Both start in a thin corner.
This is a great route. Nazi's Demise follows a very obvious large flake. Place pro high in the starting corner with a descent size sling to prevent rope drag. Follow great jams under the flake left and up until you can reach the top of the flake. Though the jams are a little strenuous, I would have a hard time calling the 1st pitch 10b (Hubbel's guide) - more 9+. The second pitch follows a dihedral with a thin crack. At one time there were rap slings on top of the 1st pitch. From the top of the second, you can walk off to the right. According to Hubbel's guide, you can add a third pitch to this route.
Extra 2 - 3" for the 1st and small stuff for the 2nd.
Eds. bring double ropes for the rappel!
Andy leading the second pitch.
Good, fun climb.
Ben Hobgood following at night.
Undercling or jam? Both, then layback....
|By Allen Hill|
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Jun 21, 2007
Not that it matters, but Mark Drier did this first. He was a real good climber who worked at Forest Mountaineering on Platte St. in Denver. His boss would not sell greenhorn punks bolting gear, but Mark would when the boss was looking the other way. Great guy.
|By richard berk|
From: Denver, CO
Jun 22, 2007
Thanks, I added his name.
|By Sergio P|
From: Idaho Springs, CO
Jul 2, 2007
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
With good use of runners and a 60m rope, you can link both pitches.
|By Scott Sills|
May 29, 2009
In 2002, we added anchor top of first pitch climbed. Also top roped face directly below anchor .12. Never did go back to add a couple bolts to this face.
|By Jay Eggleston|
Sep 28, 2009
If you plan to rap from the anchors above the first pitch, bring a shoulder length piece of webbing. The slings in-place are cut, probably gnawed through by rodents. After the second pitch we rapped from the "Dum de Dum Dum" anchors to avoid the cut slings.
|By Jonathan Stickel|
From: Golden, CO
May 24, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Today we rappelled from the anchors at the top of the second pitch with a 70m rope. Going straight down, we just barely reached a horizontal ledge that goes directly back to the base of the climb. By barely reached, I mean 4 inches of rope left below the rappel device!