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Da Butts
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Nazi's Demise 
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Showcase 
Smegma Burns 

Nazi's Demise 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mark Drier
Page Views: 1,025
Submitted By: richard berk on Jan 1, 2002
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Hanging on tight near the end of the first pitch.

Description 

If you come around Big Butt from the west Nazi's Demise and Smegma Burns are on the far right or east side of the south face. Both start in a thin corner.

This is a great route. Nazi's Demise follows a very obvious large flake. Place pro high in the starting corner with a descent size sling to prevent rope drag. Follow great jams under the flake left and up until you can reach the top of the flake. Though the jams are a little strenuous, I would have a hard time calling the 1st pitch 10b (Hubbel's guide) - more 9+. The second pitch follows a dihedral with a thin crack. At one time there were rap slings on top of the 1st pitch. From the top of the second, you can walk off to the right. According to Hubbel's guide, you can add a third pitch to this route.


Protection 

Extra 2 - 3" for the 1st and small stuff for the 2nd.



Photos of Nazi's Demise Slideshow Add Photo
Andy leading the second pitch.
Andy leading the second pitch.
Good, fun climb.
Good, fun climb.
Ben Hobgood following at night.
Ben Hobgood following at night.
Undercling or jam?  Both, then layback....
Undercling or jam? Both, then layback....
Comments on Nazi's Demise Add Comment
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By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Jun 21, 2007

Not that it matters, but Mark Drier did this first. He was a real good climber who worked at Forest Mountaineering on Platte St. in Denver. His boss would not sell greenhorn punks bolting gear, but Mark would when the boss was looking the other way. Great guy.

By richard berk
From: Denver, CO
Jun 22, 2007

Thanks, I added his name.

By Sergio P
From: Idaho Springs, CO
Jul 2, 2007
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b

With good use of runners and a 60m rope you can link both pitches.

By Scott Sills
May 29, 2009

In 2002 added anchor top of first pitch climbed also top roped face directly below anchor .12 never did go back to add a couple bolts to this face.

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Sep 28, 2009

If you plan to rap from the anchors above the first pitch, bring a shoulder length piece of webbing. The slings in-place are cut, probably gnawed through by rodents. After the second pitch we rapped from the "Dum de Dum Dum" anchors to avoid the cut slings.