This State park offers a large variety of climbing on decent to crap rock. The composition is mainly Schist with some house sized boulders. In the main parking lot (via Cold Spring Rd) there is a huge boulder with two or three routes on the backside. Continuing north along the tracks will bring you to an area that has some broken cliffs bands which have been climbed as evident from some bolts. At the far end is another largely undeveloped bouldering area with some decent overhangs.
Take the Beacon Falls exit, cross the river and follow High Rock Rd & Cold Spring Road north along the river. Continue along dirt road until you find a small boulder in the road. Park here for the main bouldering. Boulders continue 1/4 mi uphill from here. Continue down the dirt road to the main parking lot where you will find the huge 30ft boulder with sport routes. Continuing North along the tracks will bring you to a cliff section you might TR/lead but it didn't look good (mostly broken cliff bands). Below that is another small bouldering area.
There has been a few folks developing this area off and on over the years. If you have any info please add or PM me and I'll update.
Is this what you can see off Route 8? My buddy just sent me a shot from Bing of this spot he saw on the highway the other day. Looks pretty sweet. Schist though huh? I'm much more of a gneiss fan around here.
Correct! Some of the photos are stuff u can see on the north side of the route 8 cut through the forest. Some of the other stuff is on the south end. My directions shoudl be spot on. There's some great potential here but alas the rock quality is somewhat lacking.