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|Portions of the approach and cliffs of this area are on private land. MORE INFO >>>|
Face climbing to a steep dihedral.
About 100 feet to the right of Positive Vibration.
By Toast with Butter
From: Tempe, AZ
Dec 6, 2013
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
definitely could use another wave of cleaning, that is, if it has ever received one to begin with. There are loose blocks at the mantel top out, the anchor location chews the rope, and the climb is ripe with foul rock. A good short sequence in the middle earns this climb a star but the beginning and end are contemptible. Also there are two additional anchors immediately to the right of this climb so who knows what what is up with this sector of the Marley wall. I legitimately respect the bolters and first ascenders of this climb, but not every climb can be black sunshine.