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Natural Enhancement 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: FA Darren Singer, Dan Foster/ JJ Schlick on the extension.
Season: Fall, winter, spring
Page Views: 1,954
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Aug 17, 2008

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Darren, Natural Enhancement.

Description 

The first 90' of this line was done by Darren Singer, and ended at a webbing anchor with old Chouinard Curved Nuts. Instead of placing a modern anchor at this point, Dan Foster fired up the last 25'-30' of overhanging finger splitter and created one of the longest pitches on the right side, as well as, one of the most classic 5.11s up there. It is long...

Starts on a zig-zagging crack made of large blocks, directly above large, pointy boulder. The start is both physical, and somewhat deceptive and feels like .10+/.11-. Take care when leading or following because a fall onto this rock would probably ruin your day or more. I give this section PG-13. Continue up through a blocky chute and make your way to the "diving board" feature which juts out of the wall.

Once you get onto the diving board, expect small hands to fingers, with a 5.11 finger crux mid height. There is a good rest at the point of where the old school anchors once rested, and take advantage of that, because the climbing gets more strenuous and steep from here with fingers, edges, and pockets coming at you in a hard way. The gear can be a bit tricky on this section...save a .5, .75, and a #1 BD Cam for the top. The climbing is physical, though the edges are excellent.

Location 

Just left of No Feelings, A little ways right of Smiling Jay.

Protection 

  • ** A 70 meter rope will barely suffice for this thing*** Anchors are above the last ledge way up high and out of sight(Two Fixe rap/ring bolts)

Triples from Blue Metolious to Red Camalot, a fine selection of medium nuts, as well as whatever you place on the beginning.


Photos of Natural Enhancement Slideshow Add Photo
The original anchor. The #10 was floping around in the crack when I came across it.  This was all tied together with a bunch of webbing and the single Omega Pacific locker, with a lone, mysterious hand etched "M" upon it.
The original anchor. The #10 was floping around in...
Natural Male Enhancement, Right Wall.
Natural Male Enhancement, Right Wall.
Natural Enhancement
Natural Enhancement
Josh Janes gunning and plugging.
Josh Janes gunning and plugging.
Natural Enhancement is the splitter, and No Utopia is the thin seam that breaks off left.
Natural Enhancement is the splitter, and No Utopia...
Darren Mabe moving into the original finger locking, toe smearing crux. You get a shake after that, and then it's steep 5.11 to the anchors. <br /> <br />No Utopia is the next system left of him, and No Feelings is two to his right.
Darren Mabe moving into the original finger lockin...
Josh Janes moving into the pumpy section up high.
Josh Janes moving into the pumpy section up high.
Kevin, moving through the start of Natural Enhancement & No Utopia.
Kevin, moving through the start of Natural Enhance...
The start of Natural Enhancement.  Do not underestimate this section.  The difficulty comes with finding good feet.
The start of Natural Enhancement. Do not underest...

Comments on Natural Enhancement Add Comment
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By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Jun 28, 2009

This route is just beautiful! It's sustained with mostly good fingerlocks and jams as well as good faceholds for the feet. Pure crackclimbing the whole way with all natural pro. The start was definitely "heads-up" but not technically difficult. Yet another awesome pitch at a crag stacked with them.
By Monica Jones
From: CO
May 30, 2011

Amazing! I loved this route. It was long, took great gear, had lots of rests, and climbed like a dream. One of my favorites for sure.
By Robbie Brown
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 6, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Just sooo sooo good!