|The Right Wall
The first 90' of this line was done by Darren Singer, and ended at a webbing anchor with old Chouinard Curved Nuts. Instead of placing a modern anchor at this point, Dan Foster fired up the last 25'-30' of overhanging finger splitter and created one of the longest pitches on the right side, as well as, one of the most classic 5.11s up there. It is long...
Starts on a zig-zagging crack made of large blocks, directly above large, pointy boulder. The start is both physical, and somewhat deceptive and feels like .10+/.11-. Take care when leading or following because a fall onto this rock would probably ruin your day or more. I give this section PG-13. Continue up through a blocky chute and make your way to the "diving board" feature which juts out of the wall.
Once you get onto the diving board, expect small hands to fingers, with a 5.11 finger crux mid height. There is a good rest at the point of where the old school anchors once rested, and take advantage of that, because the climbing gets more strenuous and steep from here with fingers, edges, and pockets coming at you in a hard way. The gear can be a bit tricky on this section...save a .5, .75, and a #1 BD Cam for the top. The climbing is physical, though the edges are excellent.
Just left of No Feelings, A little ways right of Unknown soldier.
- ** A 70 meter rope will barely suffice for this thing*** Anchors are above the last ledge way up high and out of sight(Two Fixe rap/ring bolts)
Triples from Blue Metolious to Red Camalot, a fine selection of medium nuts, as well as whatever you place on the beginning.
|By Michael Sokoloff|
From: Spokane, WA
Jun 28, 2009
This route is just beautiful! It's sustained with mostly good fingerlocks and jams as well as good faceholds for the feet. Pure crackclimbing the whole way with all natural pro. The start was definitely "heads-up" but not technically difficult. Yet another awesome pitch at a crag stacked with them.
|By Monica Jones|
May 30, 2011
Amazing! I loved this route. It was long, took great gear, had lots of rests, and climbed like a dream. One of my favorites for sure.
|By Robbie Brown|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 6, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
Just sooo sooo good!