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Nat's Three Star Roof
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Nat's Three Star Roof 

Hueco: V4 Font: 6B

   
Type:  Trad, Boulder, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c Hueco: V3 Font: 6A [details]
FA: Bob Scarpelli
Page Views: 3,039
Submitted By: Justin Edl on Jun 6, 2007

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Vanessa Cassat working on this classic roof crack.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Probably Vedauwoo's most well-known and classic roof crack boulder problem. Crawl deep into the cave, all the way to the very first hand jam about twenty feet back, and jam out to and over the lip encountering a tricky pod or two along the way. To top out, follow the crack to the top (recommended but a bit of a pain to get down) or traverse left or jump down after the lip. A cool extention starts all the way in the back of the roof where the crack is a gaping chimney, and climbs all the way out.

Location 

This is the fissure that splits the main rock formation in two. It faces to the south, toward I-80.

Protection 

A pad or two. Most of the roof is too low for a pad, but you might want one at the lip.


Photos of Nat's Three Star Roof Slideshow Add Photo
Em cruising through the beginning.
Em cruising through the beginning.
Cameron King.
Cameron King.
Passing through the pod.
Passing through the pod.

Comments on Nat's Three Star Roof Add Comment
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By richard magill
Jun 7, 2007

Ungodly difficult getting through those pods. Great problem - any advice on techniques for the offwidth pods? I never did figure it out.

The rating is consistent with the crack/boulder ratings in Vedauwoo, but this problem is definitely harder than a typical V5 you find in a Front Range climbing gym!
By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Jun 7, 2007

You have to switch directions several times to get through the pods. That is, you have to lead into certain pods with your feet, as opposed to your hands, then score heel-toe jams and swing your body over so you can get to the next good hand jam. But that's only for one pod. The rest you should be able to reach past. Unless you're like three feet tall. This thing is surprisingly sequential for what it is.
By richard magill
Jun 8, 2007

Nice beta - I didn't think of that.
By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Jun 10, 2007

Any time I see somebody passing the final pod (which is the only one that the bat hang is really necessary for), that's the beta I've seen used.
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Aug 20, 2007
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c  V3 6A

Just reach between the good jams, no need for leading with feet, bat hanging, or anything else unusual. Crux is turning the lip. Stout for the guidebook rating (.11a) and in an area with other nice problems. Great, great problem.
By Sean Wolf
From: Denver, CO
Aug 22, 2009

We were having a hell of a time reaching past the last pod. We tried some bat hang beta but ended up finding a good fist jam way up in there instead.
By GeorgeS
Jul 24, 2011

I did this route in spring 1987. At the time I believed it to be a first ascent. I did some cleaning at the lip. I called it "Tunnel Vision" after the vision one gets of the blue Wyoming sky through the final pod before the lip.

I was in grad school at the time at CU Boulder and had been coming to V for several years to do the standard routes. The area of the party boulder was our regular camping spot. Having most of my climbing partners move on or away, I started to concentrate more on bouldering and made a few trip to V by myself to explore. The previous fall, I had cleaned and completed "The Crap Artist" which I named "Lattice Action". I remember stumbling on the tunnel and crack with a genuine thrill at the quality.
By Wade Griffith
Nov 4, 2011

Have heard others say they thought the lip moves good training for the last overhang of Friday the 13th. I think these moves are actually harder, and I use a heel hook here, not on Friday's. If you can crank through the lip on Nat's, you have a great shot at cruisin' all of Friday's.