|286 page views|
|Type: ||Aid, 17 pitches, 2300 feet, Grade VI|
|Consensus: ||5.9 A3+ [details]|
|FA: ||Walt Shipley, Troy Johnson|
|Submitted By: ||BenL on Jan 19, 2013|
the Wing. A3+
Excellent route. Sustained A3, it adds up towards the end. In terms of danger, the crux is p4, the Coral Sea. It's best to link this with p3 for a 190' pitch. Other cruxes are the Wing, which steep, and Golden Nipple, a slabby pitch at the end.
Mega classic nailing on several pitches. Feels fresh. I don't think there is more holes on the hard pitches than there were on the FA(?) At least for the Coral Sea this is obvious from the original topo.
Every pitch stands out in some way.
The only ledge is after p2. Every anchor is good.
south east face, start between Highway to Hell and El Cap Tree. Start by climbing up a tree and get on the wall after 20 feet where there is a jug/ledge on the wall. best start of any el cap route i'm sure!
a full aid rack. pins, hooks, beaks, a couple heads in case, stoppers, cams to 4 inches.