Native Son  5.9 A3+

286 page views Good page?

Type:  Aid, 17 pitches, 2300 feet, Grade VI Consensus:  5.9 A3+ [details] FA:  Walt Shipley, Troy Johnson Season:  spring/fall Submitted By:  BenL on Jan 19, 2013 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

the Wing. A3+

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Excellent route. Sustained A3, it adds up towards the end. In terms of danger, the crux is p4, the Coral Sea. It's best to link this with p3 for a 190' pitch. Other cruxes are the Wing, which steep, and Golden Nipple, a slabby pitch at the end.
Mega classic nailing on several pitches. Feels fresh. I don't think there is more holes on the hard pitches than there were on the FA(?) At least for the Coral Sea this is obvious from the original topo.
Every pitch stands out in some way.
The only ledge is after p2. Every anchor is good.

Location 

south east face, start between Highway to Hell and El Cap Tree. Start by climbing up a tree and get on the wall after 20 feet where there is a jug/ledge on the wall. best start of any el cap route i'm sure!

Protection 

a full aid rack. pins, hooks, beaks, a couple heads in case, stoppers, cams to 4 inches.