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Natilik
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Natilik 

Natilik 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 400', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
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Page Views: 250
Submitted By: Zach Alberts on Nov 3, 2012
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Keny having fun 'ramping' across the 4th pitch.

Description 

This old school trad line is undoubtably the most classic of all multi-pitch routes at Ceuse. Five unique and memorable pitches finish at the top of the beautiful plateau of the Ceuse massif with amazing views of Gap and the hautes-alpes region. Don't forget to bring your camera.

P1- (10c, 70ft) Climb the obvious hand and finger crack passing a small block/roof at about 40ft, continue up to belay at a small alcove with some fixed gear.

P2- (10d, 100ft) Climb the classic hand, big hand and fist crack and belay at the top.

P3- (5.9+, 90ft) Climb the to the gigantic roof, then traverse left to a fixed anchor and belay.

P4- (5.9, 70ft) The 'ramping pitch'. Make an unforgettable traverse right, clipping fixed pins along the way and belay at its end.

P5- (5.10b, 100ft) Face climb to the top using the water groove system clipping a few old, rusty bolts. There is one good belay bolt at the top.

Descent: The first option is to rappel the route using two 60m ropes. The more simple method is to rap the via ferrata using one rope, a 60m might make it, but a 70m is safer. This requires walking down along the plateau for five minutes to reach the via ferrata.


Location 

Look for the obvious crack system just past a metal fence at sector Natilik.


Protection 

This is a trad climb. Standard trad rack, heavy on the big hand and fist sized pieces. All anchors are fixed.



Photos of Natilik Slideshow Add Photo
Natilik takes the prominent crack system in the center.
BETA PHOTO: Natilik takes the prominent crack system in the ce...
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