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If you're like me, attempting a route that features awkward, flaring 5.11 moves protected by thin, tricky gear is not really at the top of your list of things to do. But the Old Stone Face is such a beautiful formation in a truly amazing setting. So what to do? Well, I tried aiding this route a few weeks ago and found it to be an excellent adventure. The first twenty feet where the 5.11 moves are found can be aided cleanly on aliens and small wires. Offest aliens would really do the job, if you've got some. Then, step out of the aiders and feast upon a sinker hand crack before hitting the next crux - a bulging roof. Grab the point of aid on the only bolt on the route, commit to the face move above it, and continue on to a surprise finish!
Double rack of cams from micro Aliens to #3 Camalot size.
|By Adam D|
From: Los Osos, CA
Sep 3, 2009
Lots of Poison Oak around the anchors for this climb, just about impossible to avoid.