Narrow Arrow Direct 5.12c PG13
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12b/c [details] |
| FA: | Fa: Ron burgner, Mark Weigelt FFA P2-3: John Stoddard FFA P1: Toprope long ago? Dave Morales? |
| Submitted By: | Drewsky on Aug 5, 2008 |
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Description Right of Narrow Arrow Overhang, this pitch traditionally starts with a beatdown in a difficult wide stemming corner (.11b). An easier and less cruxy method is to use the start of Shirley. Either way, climb up through varied terrain and mantle up onto a small stance at the base of a corner. Layback a flake up a slab and make an airy step-across move left under the roof. Pull the roof past a pin and establish on the face above. The left facing lieback feature thins out just before a core-intensive reach to a large flake. Follow this past a bolt to an awkward stance on a small ledge. Clip the final bolt and begin the crux, a five or six move boulder problem (V5ish).
Location This is the rightmost of the two "Narrow Arrow" routes. The beginning climbs dirty ledges below a bolt. A 60m rope will lower to the ground from the anchor. It is possible to continue for three more pitches (up to .10c), including an airy offwidth (gear to 6"). All pitches are excellent and can also provide access to new pitches above and right of the Narrow Arrow feature.
Protection Three bolts and two pins (the first questionable). A selection of gear is needed, very thin to green Camalot size. Include nuts.
| Comments on Narrow Arrow Direct |
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By blakeherrington
Aug 18, 2008
| This route continues for 3 more pitches to the narrow arrow summit.
p2 is a finger crack in a corner. 5.10b
p3 is a very demanding 5.10d pitch with an amazing roof. One of the best 5.10s at Index
P4 is a short offwidth and roof. 5.10 |
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
Jul 5, 2012
| I remember doing the last two pitches to the NA summit in the early 80s. The pitch getting to the summit cleft was fantastic 5.10 crack climbing on the prow. At the time I thought it was the best crack pitch at Index. (I wish I could remember how we got to the start of the 2nd pitch - it wasn't aid and it certainly wasn't 12c. But anyway, there is a way to do the last pitches without doing 12c.)
And back then we didn't have any pro that would fit the wide crack in the summit cleft, so that felt incredibly desperate to me. I remember stacking two hexes in the roof at the start and then running it out to the top. Now you have the option of doing a 5.11 finger traverse out right. |
By derekpearson
Jul 5, 2012
| I have traversed from Thin Fingers. You can even come from Tatoosh lots of drag if you traverse in one pitch.
Best to climb to TF belay and then go from there. |
By Drewsky
Sep 30, 2012
| Just did this route ground to summit yesterday and can confirm that the offwidth is a real grovel if you suck at offwidths: the first pitch felt like a cakewalk compared to the last. The final short pitch links well with the .10c/d pitch below it, avoiding a crappy belay stance in the chimney below the roof. In fact, I'd be willing to bet all three (short) crack pitches could be linked pretty easily. Really good climbing on this one! The first time I did the upper pitches years ago we traversed in from Thin Fingers with relative ease. |
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