This climbs the right crack in the deep chimney, staying right of the prow. The climb is easy, protects well, and is enjoyable.
No fixed gear. Long slings for the anchor help. I used the chockstone and a little extra gear. For the climb use medium to large gear.
|By John J. Glime|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 24, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
If you climb in the Narcolepsy area, climb this route. Climb softly, however, because it is hard to tell what holds are bomber and what ones are waiting to pop out. Don't let this be cause for concern as it eats up protection. It is also really easy, with varied climbing, and a fun chimney. I was pleasantly surprised and look forward to climbing it again.
|By Skyler Penrod|
Jul 8, 2008
Was a great lead, but was a little surprised not to find a chain anchor at the top. If not wanting to leave any gear it is easy to walk to the anchors of both climbs to the right of this one.
From: Sandy, UT
Aug 15, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b
Fun, easy, and protects well. In the chimney, good jams and jugs keep the grovel factor down. May look a little intimidating from the ground, but not harder than other 5.6 climbs in the area. I wouldn't recommend lugging the BD#4 - I didn't find a place for it.