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Narcolepsy Area

Routes Sorted
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Anuresis 
Chimney Sweep 
Don't Jump Back Crack 
Dream Slate 
Dreamscape 
Ethiopian Kid 
Involuntary Release 
Mr. Sandman 
Narcolepsy 
Narcosis 
Suture Fancy 
Turn Of The Sentry 
Up A Cliff Without a Ladder 

Narcolepsy Area 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.6214, -111.7472 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 20,060
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Apr 7, 2004
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whipping off the 11

Description 

A shady and cool location, just east of JHCOB Wall, with steep and smooth quartzite.

Mostly bolted, with some trad and mixed routes. Most routes have anchors. A lot of great routes exist here, as well as a controversial one that keeps getting chopped.

Aerial photo here.


Getting There 

Just past JHCOB Wall, hidden by pine trees, resides Narcolepsy.

Two approaches exist:

  • Scramble up the talus field at the lowest point and angle left to find loose trails, until you attain a gully that scrambles up steeply to the cliffs.

  • Park at Stairs Gulch and clamber up the steep bank, follow the trail west taking the right fork past Challenge Buttress and continuing west until you reach the gully and then clamber up to gain the cliffs.


13 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',5],['5.10',3],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Narcolepsy Area:
Narcolepsy   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Chimney Sweep   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Don't Jump Back Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Dreamscape   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Mr. Sandman   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Dream Slate   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
Involuntary Release   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Up A Cliff Without a Ladder   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Classics in Narcolepsy Area

Featured Route For Narcolepsy Area
Julia, going for the clip.

Dream Slate 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Narcolepsy Area
This is on the far west end of the Narcolepsy Walls. It is a bolted line on a North face. It protects well and is a fun edging climb...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

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By utfreeclimber
From: Sandy, UT
Nov 6, 2006

I climbed at the Narcolepsy area my first time the other day and I must say that the bolting here should become a standard. The bolts protect the cruxes of the routes really well, props to the FA's for reading the rock well and creating safe, exciting runouts. Runouts are brainfood for climbers.