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Narcissus Cave
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Narcissus 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Howie Feinsilber 1992
Fixed Hardware: 6 Lead Bolts, 1 Anchor Bolt, 2 Rappel Bolts [details]
Page Views: 8,763
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Feb 11, 2007

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Kane working Narcissus

Description 

Description provided courtesy of Ladd Raine:

A truly memorable and classic climb!

Start in a short low angle dihedral that has a crack that seeps forever after it rains. Make a few moves into a no-hands rest, clip your bolt and start the pumpy section of the climb, the rest of it! Using jugs, and big crimps make the traverse quickly clipping as you go. Breathe and then get ready for the meat of the route, make a long reach off of some crimps (shorter climbers sometimes dyno, sometimes use a bad intermediate), then grab the big rounded lip, traverse out onto the arete bear hug it and get up a heel, make the hardest clip of your life (MUCH EASIER WITH PRE-HUNG DRAWS), then grab some jugs and fight the pump for the last 30 feet of this climb. Beware the pump crux--- Clipping the chains!

This climb is rated 5.12a, although I give it a 12a/b because I've never felt so worked after any other 12a, yet it isn't a technically demanding as many 12bs I've been on.

Protection 

6 bolts to a 3 bolt anchor. Bolts 2, 3, 4, and 5 now have permadraws on them.

Location 

This climb can be found on the left side of the huge cave at the short dihedral that is under a long wandering line of chalked holds.


Photos of Narcissus Slideshow Add Photo
The starting dihedral of Narcissus can be polished...
BETA PHOTO: The starting dihedral of Narcissus can be polished...
Eddy Ramirez on Narcissus.
Eddy Ramirez on Narcissus.
Meat of the climb
BETA PHOTO: Meat of the climb
Kevin Umbel making it look easy on Narcissus.
Kevin Umbel making it look easy on Narcissus.
Kevin Umbel making it look easy on Narcissus.
Kevin Umbel making it look easy on Narcissus.
Blanco nearing the chains.
Blanco nearing the chains.
Doug Fischer climbing Narcissus
Doug Fischer climbing Narcissus
15 year old sending Narcissus
15 year old sending Narcissus

Comments on Narcissus Add Comment
Show which comments
By wilsonaw92
Jul 20, 2015

CONDITION REPORT 
CAUTION: I worked part of this route this weekend until I got to the third bolt and noticed the entire bolt shifting slightly in and out of the drill hole. I've never seen a bolt do this, and I'm not sure if it's fine or not, but it didn't seem fine to me. I feel like this needs to get checked out pretty soon.
By Kukymc
Jul 27, 2015

CONDITION REPORT 
CONFIRMED on 7/26 The bolt is much worse now. The bolt itself appears to be pulling out of the wall. I strongly recommend not climbing this until the third bolt gets replaced, if you have any doubts about the crux after the third.
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