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The Sponge
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Hollywood Tim S 
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Napoleon's Angst S 
Pumping Huecos S 
Sal's Neurosis S 
Sponge Problem, The 
Unknown S 

Napoleon's Angst 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: ???
Page Views: 693
Submitted By: Scott Beguin on May 6, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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This is not what you want to see sliding down the ...

Description 

Start up a slab and then navigate up a slightly overhanging arete with a variety of workable pockets. The crux is between the fourth and fifth bolts.


Location 

This route is the first route left around the corner from Pumpin' Huecos, still on The Sponge proper.


Protection 

Five bolts to a two bolt anchor.



Photos of Napoleon's Angst Slideshow Add Photo
Pulling through the crux of <em>Napoleon's Angst</em>.
Pulling through the crux of Napoleon's Angst
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By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 16, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

The first bolt is still missing its hanger, but skipping it is not too scary.

By Devin Shunk
Jul 23, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Especially if your name is George Perkins.

By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Jul 20, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

The first bolt is still missing its hangar, but as George said, it's very reasonable to get to the second. You have to make one move past the hangarless first bolt, 5.8 at most. I would say that getting to the first bolt on this climb is less committing/dangerous than getting to the first bolt on Pumping Huecos.

Overall, it's a pretty nice climb. I think it might be harder than Pumping Huecos, or at least in the same ballpark. But maybe I was doing something wrong.

By Serge Arsenyev
May 12, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

The first bolt is not necessary but with a missing hanger it doesn't look pretty on the rock.