Sneaky moves lead up to a stopper crux on this line. Get ready for a big toss from sweet holds to a not so sweet hold. A few more attention getting moves lead to a fun run-out to the chains.
The most obvious moves up the scoop seemed to be off to the side of the bolts adding some pucker factor, and stop the presses! I found an alternate to the obvious big toss at the crux! So pick your poison. The grade is probably solid for the toss, and maybe a bit soft for the sneak around the toss. Either way its a great ride.
Located on the left side of the Vietnam Wall, two routes to the left of Bikini Girls. Climbs obvious scoop to bulge. Starts w/ shoulder height ledge w/ jugs and low 1st bolt.
5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor w/ rings.
|By Erik the Awful|
Jul 25, 2012
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
To elaborate on the description a little: It appears the original line follows the bolts via two sets of double barrel pockets, then left to the obvious jug rail. But, it seems much easier to follow a line of pockets and crimps about 5 feet left of the third bolt. Also, the dyno mentioned in the book (from the jug rail up and right) is very contrived and much harder than going to a good left hand pinch. Long story short, if you take the path of least resistance left of the bolt line it's more like 12a - just don't fall at the third bolt or it would be a nasty pendulum.