Napalm Death 5.12c/d
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12c [details] |
| FA: | Huey |
| Submitted By: | Jesse Ryan on Sep 7, 2006 |
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Description Sneaky moves lead up to a stopper crux on this line. Get ready for a big toss from sweet holds to a not so sweet hold. A few more attention getting moves lead to a fun run-out to the chains.
The most obvious moves up the scoop seemed to be off to the side of the bolts adding some pucker factor, and stop the presses! I found an alternate to the obvious big toss at the crux! So pick your poison. The grade is probably solid for the toss, and maybe a bit soft for the sneak around the toss. Either way its a great ride.
Location Located on the left side of the Vietnam Wall, two routes to the left of Bikini Girls. Climbs obvious scoop to bulge. Starts w/ shoulder height ledge w/ jugs and low 1st bolt.
Protection 5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor w/ rings.
By Erik the Awful
From: Bozeman
Jul 25, 2012
| To elaborate on the description a little: It appears the original line follows the bolts via two sets of double barrel pockets, then left to the obvious jug rail. But, it seems much easier to follow a line of pockets and crimps about 5 feet left of the third bolt. Also, the dyno mentioned in the book (from the jug rail up and right) is very contrived and much harder than going to a good left hand pinch. Long story short, if you take the path of least resistance left of the bolt line it's more like 12a - just don't fall at the third bolt or it would be a nasty pendulum. |
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