|Yellow Knife Buttress
A fun route for sure, but compared to its neighbor to the right, it's not quite as classic. But who wants to compare? Not me, but if you only have time for one hard 5.11 do Alaskan Arches (5.11d). Ok, let's sit back and look in to the route at hand.
Start up the right-leaning crack clipping 2 bolts above the crack.This part looks quite easy, and it's not too hard but harder than it looks. Move right on to a ledge clip another bolt and head up in to a really cool dihedral with good holds.Exiting the corner is the first crux involving the use of small stemming feet and an undercling. Above this is a sloping hueco-ish hold. From that hold, move up and right to another hueco (this one is a super jug). Take a rest here 'cause you will need it. The anchor is close now, but it's guarded by a vicious crimpy section. When I was onsighting, I went up right then back down to the jug.Up left and back to the jug.then chose up right though it felt hard for the grade. That way it went well. There is a good jug of to the left of the anchor to clip from.
Please post if you have any beta on the top crux section, 'cause it seemed like it could be done a few ways.
The far left route on Yellow Knife.Left of Alaskan Arches (5.11d) and up the hill.
6 bolts to anchor.
Sep 7, 2010
The top crux is indeed quite hard, and a proud onsight. First, I tried going up left from the hueco jug to the tiny crimp, and then up to the gaston sidepull to the right, but this spit me off. On my second try, I had the hueco in my left hand and a good pocket slightly up to the right, got my left foot high on a good edge, reached up w/ left hand to the sidepull (reachy), then got my left foot up into the hueco jug. There's a small crimp out to the right to get your feet higher, then clip the anchors.
A couple hard 11 cruxes, and generally very technical and fun and with good falls. Get on it!