The crux is about 12 feet off the ground, stepping out of the crack onto a sloping ramp. It can be dirty, and its getting pretty polished. It is however one of the few real beginners climbs in Iowa.
At the top, facing the river this climb is under the anchors on the left. Facing the rock, it is the climb on the right. When its dry you can walk down river past the Gazebo, down the stairs and walk to the climb next to the river. Most of the time you need to rappel down.
Top rope anchors.
|By Joe Stark|
Oct 8, 2011
The left-side anchor (facing the river) is getting a little loose. The direction of pull is good, but I still backed it up. Bring some cord or a large sling and use the bombproof rock next to the anchor as a backup.
|By Bill McKirgan|
From: Cedar Rapids, IA
Jan 26, 2013
Yes, the left bolt is indeed getting jiggly. The adhesive is not bonding the bolt to the rock anymore, but the bolt is not twisting, and as Joe Stark noted, is okay with respect to direction of pull.
This area actually needs no bolts as there's plenty of good rock to sling, or protect with hexes and stoppers.
|By Chrys Mitchell|
May 20, 2014
In addition to the two methaods of access described under location, a third means of accessing this climb (as well as Kippered Devi) is to descend a gully just upstream of the buttress these climbs are on. The 1978 guidebook give a 5.3 rating to this gully. It's more like third or fourth class in dry conditions but can be dangerously tricky when it's wet. It also can make for an entertaining winter climb.