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Nancy's Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Borachone 
Chance 
De Gueo 
Dyne-"E"-Mite 
Get Along Cindy Cindy 
Hey Dude 
Nipple, The 
Stumpy 
Twin Guns 
Unsorted Routes:
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Description 

Nancy's Wall or Nancy's Rock a.k.a. Cyclops Slab is this cool, little 60', sport crag slab with a combination of Monastery's crystalline and Combat Rock's beautiful granite. The routes are all moderate, going from 5.6 to 5.11, I believe. 2 x bolts on a sketchy flake (what was that guy thinking?) is the anchor on top and that is shared by all routes. TR is easy too. There is some potential bouldering around the area as well.


Getting There 

Drive towards Loveland on US 34 just past Drake. About 1/4 mile outside Drake, there is some sort of monument on you left and you can see the dam on your right. There is a pulloff on the left side of the road right where the monument is. Right off the pulloff, you see a small trail leading up the hillside and [Nancy's Wall or Nancy's Rock aka] Cyclop's Slab is about a 2 minute hike from the trailhead. Great approach, huh?


L->R: 

A. Dyne-"E"-Mite, 9, 1p, 65', bolts +/- gear.
B. De Gueo, 10, 1p, 55', bolts.
C. Borachone, 7, 1p, 55', bolts & gear.
D. Chance, 7, 1p, 55', bolt & gear.
E. Stumpy, 8+, 1p, 55', bolts +/- gear.
F. Hey Dude, 11, 1p, 60', bolts & gear.
G. Get Along Cindy Cindy, 8+ PG-13, 1p, 60', gear.

Above:
The Nipple, 10, 1p, 20', gear & bolt or TR.
Twin Guns, 10, 1p, 20', TR.


Hazards 

There is quite a bit of poison ivy at the base on the left side of the wall. There are also quite a few wasps that linger on this face.


9 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',1],['5.10',3],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Nancy's Rock:
Borachone   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   
Chance   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 55'   
Browse More Classics in Nancy's Rock

Featured Route For Nancy's Rock
Deb around the crux.

De Gueo 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b  CO : Estes Park Valley : ... : Nancy's Rock
5.5 miles west of the Beige Siphon Tube to a paved pullout on the north side of the road. Hike 30 yards uphill to the slab. De Gueo 5.10-. Cling, edge, and smear up the left blunt arete to the upper face. Edge past two nickle thick smears and reach long for the good hold....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Nancy's Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Nancy's Rock with routes.
BETA PHOTO: Nancy's Rock with routes.
Al squared on her first climb.
Al squared on her first climb.
Comments on Nancy's Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 13, 2006
By Bernard Gillett
Jun 2, 2003

Hi Allen. Thanks for submitting the correct names for all of your climbs at Nancy's Rock (and elsewhere in Big Thompson). I'll make a note of it in my desk copy of my guide so that I can correct it should I ever do another edition.

As far as doing the research for my guide: you're right, I did a poor job finding out who did these routes. I asked around and found no one who even knew of the routes, let alone who did them. I suppose I could have just listed them all as "Unknown," on "Unnamed Rock," but it makes describing the routes difficult, and it also makes for descriptions that are hard for the user of the guide to follow ("Unknown 3: Clip the first bolt on Unknown 2, then move up and right to the anchor on Unknown 4"). I made the decision to give the routes some names at the risk of pissing off the FA parties -- my apologies.

Realize that by your own admission, you called the area Rio Bravo, while Jim Disney called it Nancy's Rock. We all have our own names for these little places, and while I strive to use the name given a route or rock by the people who first climbed there, I don't always get it right. I rely on people like you to send information my way as I don't know most of the people in the huge climbing community along the Front Range. My address was listed in my 1993 guide to Estes Park, and it's also listed in my latest guide, along with an email address. If you do any additonal new routes, I'd be happy to hear from you so that I can include them in a guide with the proper names.

As for the anchor in at the top of Nancy's Rock: I've used it every time I've climbed there, and it appears reasonably solid. However, as an author of a guide, I think it's reasonable to make people aware of the fact that they are lowering off of bolts placed in a detached flake. Do you know the story of the block on the top of Salathe Wall in Yosemite? My understanding is that people used that block as an anchor for years. When Paul Piana topped out on the last day of his climb with Todd Skinner, he clipped into the block as well, but wisely chose to back it up by clipping an old piton nearby. Good thing he did: the bock decided to move that day, and it slid off the wall and went 3000 feet to the ground, nearly killing them both. I have no idea whether the flake in which you placed bolts is going to move in our lifetime, but if it does, I'll be glad I warned people of it in my guide.

Once again, sorry for screwing up your route names. With your help, I'm sure I can do a better job next time around. By the way, are the names you've listed for the routes your own, or did you use the names that Jim Disney may have given them when he top roped them?

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 2, 2003

Sounds like a complete pile. I've never seen anyone quite so anxious to claim first ascents of a bunch of 1-star and no-star topropes. But then, you don't see many people who put anchors in detached flakes, either.

By Crusty
Jun 2, 2003

Allen, I've always wondered where Spinal Tap is. Do you know where it is? Just curious, not that I'd actually climb it. Thanks. -C

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 2, 2003

I have to admit, this really sounds like a complete pile that would appeal mostly to gumbys; however, there is a place for moderates and maybe this is it. Bolting a detached flake sounds really suspect to me. Be careful out there...

By Bernard Gillett
Jun 3, 2003

I've climbed at Nancy's/Cyclops/Rio Bravo several times, and I think it's a great place to go (the ACs who say it sounds like a complete pile: sounds like you haven't climbed there). Easy approach, excellent rock, and perfect for visiting family members who want to try a little climbing with Uncle Bernard, especially since it's usually warm around Thanksgiving and Christmas. Even after climbing for 20+ years, I still enjoy a sunny pitch of 5.6 on clean granite, and this place fits the bill for that sort of cragging. Thanks, Allen, for putting up the routes. I'd love to get out and see your other routes -- send an email via this site and we'll see if we can make it happen.

By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 25, 2003

The climbs may not be "classic", but they are still good and a lot of fun. Plus, for a small crag it packs a lot of variety of difficulty and climbing. To top it off, I've never had to stand in line for a route!

By Nate Christiansen
Sep 7, 2003

I was just wondering who placed those 3/8" bolts on top? Has anyone ever looked at them? Yes, they are placed properly, but they are also placed on a loose flake. They could have been placed ANYWHERE else and would have been just fine. These routes are not exaclty the safest routes to toprope unless well backed up.

By Dustin Bauer
Mar 24, 2004

To all who go out thier set routes, name them, write guide books. I commend you!!! Thanks...This ROCK (because thats all it is right) is a fun place to climb. Ten minutes from loveland and BAM your climbing. How could anyone complain about that? To all that want to be "OLD HAGS" Ill spend my time and energy enjoying this beautiful ROCK. Thanks Again...See ya at the top!

By Justin Topel
Mar 3, 2005

I would just like to thank Bernard Gillet for all of his great research and beta on the local rocks. I appreciate your dedication, time, and your humble attitude towards climbing. Unfortunately this great sport is filled with arrogance and extreme opinions. I think that the sport would profit more from everyone enjoying climbing the rocks more than catering to their opinions or egos. If someone want recognition for setting a route, or correcting something (like my spelling), let em' do it. It hasn't caused anyone harm. We all have opinions on bolting techniques, trad or sport, ropes or not, and so on. I just look forward to climbing the rocks on a great sunny day, being outdoors with friends, and getting some exercise. So thanks again Mr. Gillet for your time and excellent book . It is a lot of help to many.

By Bernard Gillett
Mar 5, 2005

Thanks for your kind note, Justin.

By allen simons
Mar 10, 2005

To all who fret the Anchor at the top, fret no more.I have removed it and replaced it just to keep the @#$%& to a minimum. The new anchor is located 3-4 feet higher and to the left on a different portion of rock. This new location now makes top-roping the entire face questionable due to swing potential. I have begun drilling a second set of top-rope anchors 10 feet right of the old anchor (flake). My drill battery died but I will get up and finish is soon. This additional anchor, when completed, will allow two tope-ropes at once and make top-roping the right side of the face safer. Secondly, 10 feet left of the anchor a single bolt with a quick clip exists. The purpose of this bolt when installed was to aide in top-roping the far left route by means of using this single bolt as a directional. Using this eliminates swing potential. I don't know if the new anchor placement will work well for this directional now. Just have to try it and see. Lastly, I have scoped out the far left side of the face and feel there is room for one more fun problem there. I have plans to bolt a new line there unless I receive major objections from anyone. Heres your chance at me so take it if you need it, but be nice and don't take too long to get back to me. I hope the new anchor placement(s) make all happy.allen

By allen simons
Mar 26, 2005

Ok, the new set of rap anchors are in on the upper right side of the wall. Secondly, a third set of anchors are up and left behind the boulders of the main anchor. This is to facilitate the new route on the far left side of the Slab. Have fun. * I was sorry to see the site will no longer be updated. this is a cool site for finding routes.

By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 4, 2005

Hey Allen, just wanted to say thanks for your work on the anchors. This is a fun place to climb.

By allen simons
Sep 6, 2005

Did you try them out? Do you think the placement is OK? We still need to get together and climb don't we? al

By Nancy Dale
Jan 26, 2006

Nancy's Wall or Nancy's Rock as you refer to it was originally named Nancy's Slab for me...Then Nancy Dale Disney, now just Nancy Dale.

I climbed it with a top rope and did a 5.8 route.

By allen simons
Feb 13, 2006

Thank you Nancy Dale for that bit of Big T History. Jim had told My friend Kyle and myself that he had infact called the rock Nancy's Rock after you. He did not say when it had been named or when it was climbed although I knew it to be many years prior to my climbing there. I think this rock went undiscovered or un-noticed by many for some time. It is a fun rock to climb and I always like learning the history of our area. Allen