|Nancy's Thumb Tower
Tricky start could result in a bad fall. Probably smart to throw in one or two pieces before leaving the ground. You'll get a couple of nice hand jams before the route's over.
First route you come to and most obvious crack, when walking down to Nancy's Thumb/North Fin.
I was able to justify my purchase of an expensive Black Diamond C3 at the start of the route (size 00 I think). The rest of the route used BD #.75,#1,#2, and #3.
|Comments on Nancy's Crack
|By 1Eric Rhicard|
May 23, 2006
This route is only worth doing if you have done everything else on the mountain. A number of ankles have been sprained or broken on this pile. If you really want to climb a crack do the Old Man, Slippery When Wet, Histoplasmosis, or head to Chimney Rock, The Reef, anywhere but Nancy's Crack.
|By Jeremiah Johnson|
From: Hershey PA
Oct 29, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13
Don't believe the negative hype; a very good route if you're into shorter, tricker climbs. Don't blow the start.
From: missoula, mt
Nov 25, 2007
This route is not very fun, EFR is absolutely right with his other route suggestions. If you get bored or have done these, there are a couple fun moves on this route. The pro is crap for a good part of the route, there are a couple good pieces near the end but ankle busting is a possibility.
|By James DeRoussel|
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 28, 2008
This may a be a good one to top rope, which can be done by climbing up the west side of Nancy's Thumb via Ben There Dun That (5.7) or the Regular Route (5.4). If you are looking for a crack to lead, Old Man is a much better choice, right around the corner.
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 25, 2009
From: Olympia, WA
Jun 20, 2010
I'm glad I didn't read these comments until after doing the climb. I definitely enjoyed it, I just wish it was longer. I had no problem with pro and put in a bomber hex(BD#3, sideways) from the start. I probably would've hit my feet when clipping my second piece, but I have clipped way higher first bolts before. Rest of the gear were cams listed above.
|By Cameron Green|
Sep 10, 2010
Definitely a better route to top rope. The first move to get up to the crack is pretty tough (for me, as a beginner)and is the most likely place for you to fall on the whole route. Once you get in to the actual crack, it is a short and straight forward climb. There are two anchors on the top, but if you are going to top rope the climb, you definitely want to set up on the anchor to the right that is a bit below the top of the rock. The other anchor is easier to get to from the top, but if you use it, the rope will pull you off to the left and make the climb much more challenging and almost impossible to get back on the wall if you do fall.
|By Alex McIntyre|
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 13, 2011
Did this today to regain confidence after being destroyed by Old Man. I thought it was a cool little thing. Just need to be comfortable bouldering a little bit at the start until you get to the .75 placement. I thought the climb was fun!
|By Ryan and Jesse Morse-Brady|
Apr 28, 2013
I thought the climb had very good movement, and straight forward pro, and good scenery. Likely not PG-13 territory, but blowing the start would be a scary fall on small pro.
|By David Adams|
Jan 5, 2014
I'm with Alex if you don't mind the initial unprotected moves the route is fun and worth doing.