P1- Ape your way up the fantastic techno-crack then manage your way up the crux face to the anchor. 5.11+ 100' P2- Get your slab head on to the amazing diagonal jugs. 5.10 170' P3- More stellar slabbin' to the anchor. 5.10 175' P4- Pull the steep water groove. 5.10 120'
Goes up between the two grooves right of Use It or Luge It.
By andjoely From: Menlo Park, CA Mar 10, 2010 rating: 5.11b/c6c+23VIII-24E4 6a PG13
I finally got around to doing the entire route. I thought it was pretty cool but the first 2 pitches are the best. the 3rd pitch is kinda boring and the 4th pitch is a super wierd move involving use of my knee for the way I did it (Old school 5.10d) The route can easily be done when the left groove is running water as you got a bolt right there for the 3 or so feet you are in the groove on p2 so the route is easy to do the day after or even the day of a rain. only very easy moves on jugs are runout but you have to do 5.10 moves with your feet 5 feet above bolts on p2. The route definitely has a good amount of variety.
Well I've heard several adjectives used to describe LK routes, but "boring" has never been one of them. Maybe it's time you find a new challenge. Thanks for the input. Nathan, sorry, no more pics.
By andjoely From: Menlo Park, CA Mar 29, 2010 rating: 5.11b/c6c+23VIII-24E4 6a PG13
By no means did I imply that I thought your route was boring. I just thought the rock on the 3rd pitch didn't have much in terms of sustained climbing, intersting features, or cool moves, so it was kind of boring to reclimb it after leading since I was rope soloing (the other pitches were awesome enough that it was quite fun to reclimb them). That said i'll emphasize that overall I would highly recommend the route to anybody as it's one of the better, more varied routes at the knob.
Edit: If climbing this route, make note of the new route "Nana Gets Her Groove On", as they merge briefly on P-2. It is also possible to finish on "Nana Gets Her Groove On" as an excellent finish to this route, by continuing up the groove instead of moving back right.
I've only climbed the first pitch of this route which can be done craggin style with a single 60m. This pitch is high in aesthetics and grin factor. I'd rate it up there as one of the best 5.11 pitches in the state. Look forward to getting back and climbing the whole route.
Awesome. Pitch one is a classic NC finger crack and great technical face climbing at its end. P2 is nearly 200' of heads up slabbing. P3 and 4 are super fun with the final crux on the fourth being a great puzzle to press out right at the end.