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Namenslose Kante 5a
5.8- YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 14 ZA VS 4c British
Avg: 2.7 from 3
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Routes in Bockmattli
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Dreimal kurz gelacht 6c T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Jenelana 7a T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Namenslose Kante 5a T,S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Supertramp 6c+ T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A0 |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1100 ft (333 m), 9 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,196 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Colin Winter on Jul 24, 2012 |
| Admins: | Dan Flynn, Mark P. |
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Description
One of the easiest, and most popular, routes at Bockmattli.
Much of the climbing is 3rd and 4th grade (french) terrain. Nevertheless, the line is quite aesthetic and, as the name implies, airy (particularly the crux pitches in the middle). Rock quality is quite good, though there is some loose stuff on various bands along the way.
All in all a very worthwhile climb for the grade.
Much of the climbing is 3rd and 4th grade (french) terrain. Nevertheless, the line is quite aesthetic and, as the name implies, airy (particularly the crux pitches in the middle). Rock quality is quite good, though there is some loose stuff on various bands along the way.
All in all a very worthwhile climb for the grade.
Location
The route is on the Namensloser Turm, the first tower as seen from the Bockmattli hut.
Follow the very obvious trail from the hut and, as it begins to zig zag up the large couloir, break left (again, on a well traveled but smaller trail) to the base of the wall and up a small gully to the start of the climb (with a blue marker and an anchor).
The route is not conceived for abseil descent, and to do so would be quite tedious.
The walk off from the back side is extremely straightforward, following a clear trail back to the large couloir, where it adjoins a hiking trail that zig zags down to the hut.
Follow the very obvious trail from the hut and, as it begins to zig zag up the large couloir, break left (again, on a well traveled but smaller trail) to the base of the wall and up a small gully to the start of the climb (with a blue marker and an anchor).
The route is not conceived for abseil descent, and to do so would be quite tedious.
The walk off from the back side is extremely straightforward, following a clear trail back to the large couloir, where it adjoins a hiking trail that zig zags down to the hut.
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