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Go to the left-hand end of Rock Of Ages' lower wall and look for the large dihedral system. This gets morning shade.
P1: Climb up and right on a slab from an old log to the corner, then place a few nuts or a small cam for a directional before starting up the left-facing, left-leaning dihedral to a bulge. This is pumpy underclings and locks. One good rest has a solid 3.5" - 4.5" placement just there (#3.5 Camalot is perfect). This is a 'Thank God' placement because the a few of the others are semi-shallow, small cams. Arrive at the bulge and pass it by on a 1.5" cam before belly-flopping onto a shallow slab. This is probably the most awkward 5.10 move I've ever done. It is apparently much easier for shorter people. If you are tall, the combination of the thin crack and high feet might be quite a spanking. Establish yourself on this slab and build a belay on the corner. although this has been a relatively short pitch (~100'), rope drag will make further progress unpleasant.
P2: Continue up the dihedral to the crux, maybe 5' over the belay. High feet on the left hand wall make this easier than it first appears. This pitch is easier if you are tall. Continue up about 50' to a pine tree, then either traverse left and up to the anchors on the neighboring sport route, or top out on easy moves and then traverse left to the anchors (bolt & pin) up top.
Rap off 115' to the ground. A single 70m just makes it, and a 60m will get you down to a reasonable scramble.
One set of TCUs and cams from 0.5" to 2" plus one #4 Friend. One set of nuts from #4 BD to #12 BD with extras if you want to sew it up.
The belly flop move on Nameless Demon....
|Comments on Nameless Demons
|By Anonymous Coward|
Aug 12, 2002
This climb is enjoyably done as a single pitch with long slings, just watch it on the beginning of the upper corner, as a slip could be painful due to the proximity of the ledge. The "awkward bellycrawl" is good fun: left foot up, lie down on the little slab with a funky right hand lock in the horizontal crack, then simply reach up with the left to a good jug. Cool route, pleasantly moderate for this burly cliff.
|By Kat A|
From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Aug 9, 2008
Pitch one felt pretty strenuous. And the belly flop is a perfect description of the move when turning the corner. The start of pitch 2 felt really hard for me, but I'm short with no ape factor. I ended up going left and doing some crimpy face climbing, while my taller partner went straight up the crack and was able to reach the holds.
|By Ross Keller|
From: Parker, CO
May 11, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
This can be done as 1 pitch if you take care about managing rope drag on the gear before the "belly flop" and then once established on the mid-height ledge reach back down to back clean the easy to reach piece that protects the "flop" (BTW, the belly flop most is a little bizarre, but not very hard.). There's a fixed nut and a bomber #1 Camalot placement just below the crux and a surprisingly good, but strenuous-to-place, green/yellow Alien placement at the crux.
|By jeremy long|
From: BOULDER CO
May 19, 2011