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Naked Lunch 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 5 pitches, 360'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Adams & Hare, 2002
Page Views: 1,460
Submitted By: david goldstein on Jul 26, 2006
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Lenny is on his way to combining pitches 3 and 4 h...


An excellent outing on the wall between Rock Odyssey and Awakenings. Note: except for one easily avoided move on P3, this is all Dream Canyon 5.10. Don't miss the fourth pitch which culminates the route with a nicely exposed roof.

Start in the same spot as Rock Odysseyand Awakenings, but scramble up a 3rd class ramp rightwards for about 20 to the first bolt.

P1: 10d (~7 bolts). Slabbing w/ a crux bulge @ the 3rd bolt. The first pitch of either of the other two routes could be substituted if looking to add difficulty.
P2: Actually starts at the Awakenings belay, so might be best to relocate here. Follow about 7 bolts up slabs (5.10) to a ledge with anchors.
P3: Step right, then slab up the extremely well protected crux. 5 bolts to the anchor but linking w/ P4 makes sense.
P4. Follow bolts up and left (don't go right, unless you want a rude awakening) with fun vertical moves to the finishing roof. A nice transition from slab to steep. 10d.

Rap the route w/ a single 60m, combining pitches 3 & 4 where one has to watch out for the ropes running through a notch in the roof.

The ratings are consistent with most Dream Canyon and Boulder Canyon sport climbing, but ...


7 draws plus biners etc for clipping the anchors. 10 draws + if linking 3 and 4.

Photos of Naked Lunch Slideshow Add Photo
Bee stemming into the roof, Pitch 4.  Photo by Craig Quincy.
Bee stemming into the roof, Pitch 4. Photo by Cra...
Pitch 3 (crux) of Naked Lunch, with the fun roof on Pitch 4 on the skyline.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 3 (crux) of Naked Lunch, with the fun roof o...
Lenny Miller cruises the crux finger-tip lieback on pitch 3.
Lenny Miller cruises the crux finger-tip lieback o...
Lenny in the p4 stem near the top of the pitch.
Lenny in the p4 stem near the top of the pitch.
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By Dana Ernst
Jul 27, 2006

There is a 5th pitch to this route. From the anchors atop pitch 4, climb up the slab (no harder than 5.8 if I remember correctly) to the top of the wall, passing a couple of diagonal cracks along the way. The pitch has far fewer bolts than the previous pitches, but there are gear options in the diagonal cracks. There is not a bolt anchor on top of the wall, however, there is a giant tree near where the route tops out. Great route!

By Ben Collett
Oct 24, 2006

From the top of the 4th pitch, a single rope rap (with a 60) will get you to the top of the 1st pitch of Rock Odyssey. And, by the way, this is a fun climb deserving more traffic than it gets.