This is a classic, difficult Mickey's beach climb. Climb just right of the Mickey's Beach Arete (5.13b), up the leftmost bolt line on the side of the rock facing straight out towards the ocean. This route has a little of everything. Start on an approximately 5.12a crimpy section, climb a flake, have fun with a few underclings, enjoy a few tiny crimps, and then stick big moves onto slopers until a fun finishing move.
As you're climbing this overhung route, you may think to yourself, "There are no holds ANYWHERE!" You're mostly right. Tough sections are until the first bolt and from the third bolt up, with the crux lying between the 3rd and 6th bolts. Footwork is key.
Tips:To set a toprope for this climb, walk on top of the Main Rock to the side facing the ocean and rappell from the anchor located there. As you're rappelling, descend down and right (facing the rock) about 15 ft. You will be facing a 2-ring anchor. This is the anchor to set for this climb.
The section until the first bolt warrants the climb's "serious" rating, as it involves a dangerous fall either on toprope or lead. Climbing to the first bolt is tough and it's very possible to fall on the sharp corner of the belayer's rock.
The belayer may get a little wet as high tide approaches; try to do this climb when the water level is low.
7 bolts to a 2 ring anchor.
|By Aron Quiter|
From: Oakland, CA
Jun 24, 2003
Or, if you're prepared, you can stick clip the first bolt!
If you're going to top rope this climb, bring draws and clip them as you rappell down fromthe top anchor unless you want to start over again. The overhang and lack of good holdswill make it impossible to get back on route in a fall.
Also, the last move is HARD so you're not done until you're done.
My tip: Man was given an opposable thumb for a reason. Use it!
From: santa rosa, cali
Oct 13, 2003
My good friend Ken Ariza did first ascent of Naked and Disfigured after the huge blocks that had the old beach crack (5.12A) and a couple other climbs on them fell off into the ocean during a winter storm! Ken had to remove refrigerator size pieces of loose rock that were left precariously dangling there after the incident just to clean the route before he could start trying it.Hats off to Kenny!
Aug 30, 2012
cool route with a sustained upper section after a moderate beginning. the move to the anchors could cause serious problems. there's a link from the start of Mutiny into the middle crux of Naked and Disfigured.