Nails to Nowhere  5.12d

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet Consensus:  5.12d [details] FA:  FA: Greg Miller, Jan Delaney, 1986. FFA: Jason Haas, 2009 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Jason Haas on Feb 10, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Nails to Nowhere follows the seam in the center of...

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Description 

Nails to Nowhere is the obvious, left-leaning seam eight feet right of the huge boulder blocking the trail at the base of Hawk Eagle.

Start at the base of a tips crack and make a move right to a jug then head up and left along the seam to a jug shelf at the seam's end. Pull over onto the slab above and follow easy but unprotected moves (5.9 X) to a large ledge. Belay on gear, scramble off right.

Location 

Far right side of Hawk Eagle, just right of the huge boulder blocking the approach trail.

Protection 

I used two Black Aliens and that's it. There's a nut placement mid crux, but I wasn't strong enough to place it so I skipped it. Wasn't really psyched on the quality of either Alien though, the low one seemed flarey and might rip, the high one, besides being like a puzzle-piece to get in there, is also behind a flake that seems solid, but may not stay if it had to hold a big whip. Who knows, both pieces could be bomber and I am just a big wimp.

There's a couple gear options up top for the anchor, but the one I used could be made using a SR and a #4 Camalot.