This is an often overlooked route on the north side of the Valley Massif that although is not a classic, is nonetheless worthwhile if you’re in the area. On the north side of Valley Massif, about 50 feet right of the start of Hammer, approach by scrambling up a short, easy, hand crack moving back at the top into the left side the alcove. Ascend the face first using the hand crack on the left then switching to the one on the face. The face crack eventually leads to easy climbing on a series of big holds in a right facing corner. From here, either continue up the thin crack to the anchors on top of Tool or Die (harder?) or exit by stepping right over a wide crack and onto the west face of the Massif. The right exit seems to be easier, but there is no bolted anchor at the top and nothing but a great big crack splitting the face so make sure to have a few extra wide pieces (#4 Camalot or wider) to make an anchor. To reach the rap stations on the north side, traverse south 100 ft and than east 50 ft making your way around the ledges on the west and south face, staying roped up if necessary.
On the north side of Valley Massif, about 50 feet right of the start of Hammer, approach by scrambling up a short, easy, hand crack moving back at the top into the left side the alcove.
Standard Vedauwoo rack- stoppers, doubles in small cams (Aliens) up to #3 Camalots, singles #4 & 5 Camalots.
|By Arlo F Niederer|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 28, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
We were running out of sunlight, so just did the first two pitches, the short 50' one and the longer second one up the corner. With the bolted belay stations, it's easy to rappel from here.