Awesome route with 4 distinct sections. 70m rope needed. Plenty of rests makes this pitch very approachable.
The first section is a bouldery start off the ground. Definitely 10+ish. I placed doubled yellows alien right before the move, and then a red alien part way through.
Then you get a nice section of mixed-size jamming with occasional stemming feet.
Next up is a 40' section of green (#.75) Camalots. Normally this would be desperate thrutching and aid climbing for me, but there is an awesome offset wall to the left with good feet and you can do the whole section with chimney moves. Unlimited no hands rests all the way up.
Then you get to a huge resting ledge where you can contemplate the business.
And the business is about 30 feet of tight hands (#1 Camalots) Power through this as the angle kicks back and you get rewarded with some bomber hand jams (#2 Camalots) and finally some wide hands (#3 Camalots) up over the roof. I brought a 3.5" Camalot but never placed it.
2 Yellow Alients & 1 Red Alien. 3 #0.5 Camalots. 5 #0.75 Camalots. 7 #1 Camalots. 4 #2 Camalots. 4 #3 Camalots. Yes, I stitched it up.
Darren Knezek on "Nagasaki".
|By Mark Gain|
Dec 26, 2005
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
I climbed this as my first route in IC 1993. Loved it all the way, with all the struggle and gumption I could; until the top, where I was sooooo spent (100+ feet of endurance) that I reached over the IC finsish and grabbed on to a nice block that had a good hold cliff side, I begun to pull/mantle to the pins, when BAMMMMMMM, thunder rolled as the micro wave size boulder was dislodged, I fall back and yell ROCK!!!!, then I begin the free fall as I look below to see what my belayer was doing and what was I into. He was on it!, and taking in slack as he dove under a sandy overhang. I dropped for a good while as I was not conserving gear (very different than JT or Paridise Forks), rocks peltted the ground. Belayer and climber fine and I wanted another of those finest cracks around to climb.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Mar 2, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
Really nice route with good gear. Thin hands to hands through some easier climbing, but ever steepening and ever widening. Take protection to 3.5"
From: Concord, MA
Nov 6, 2006
I felt this route was more like 5.11-. none of the moves were particularly hard, but the route goes on and on. very strenuos, and very good.