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Nadia's Nine 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Joe Herbst and Mark Moore, 1977
Page Views: 4,419
Submitted By: L. Hamilton on Feb 20, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Stout corner on the upper pitch. Collin sending w...

Description 

See photo for exact location, about 100 yards to the left and slightly lower than Nadia's Niche. The climb's distinctive feature is an overhanging, cobra-hooded dihedral that forms the second pitch. Both pitches are well-protected and interesting.Pitch 1 -- Climb a smooth-walled dark V-corner with good rock (5.9+).Pitch 2 -- Move the belay a few yards to the right, then climb a prominent, steep inside corner/crack that overhangs at the top (5.9).

Protection 

No fixed gear. Bring a varied rack, from small wires to 4" cam.


Photos of Nadia's Nine Slideshow Add Photo
Nadia's Nine pitch 1
BETA PHOTO: Nadia's Nine pitch 1
Jonny rapping from top of pitch 2 of Nadia's Nine.
Jonny rapping from top of pitch 2 of Nadia's Nine.
Nadia's Nine pitch 2
BETA PHOTO: Nadia's Nine pitch 2
Nadia's Nine begins in the narrow V-corner shown by the arrow.  The second pitch climbs the clean, overhanging corner above and slightly to the right.
Nadia's Nine begins in the narrow V-corner shown b...
Joe Herbst on the first pitch of Nadia's Nine (Eric Dearing photo).
Joe Herbst on the first pitch of Nadia's Nine (Eri...
Jonny flying up p-2 on a beautiful evening.  <br /> <br />Taken 5/28/08 <br /> <br />
Jonny flying up p-2 on a beautiful evening.

Take...
Jonny on pitch one of Nadia's Nine. It's eye candy for me!
Jonny on pitch one of Nadia's Nine. It's eye candy...
First pitch of Nadia's Nine, a bit of a grovel stem fest... for us anyway.
First pitch of Nadia's Nine, a bit of a grovel ste...

Comments on Nadia's Nine Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 6, 2014
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 10, 2005
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Just climbed this route today and I have to tip my hat (once again) to Joe...what a route! Great climbing on this one- although its stout at the grade, I wouldnt call it sandbagged if you're solid on all the techniques it requires.

Also, theres a pair of over-slung rap stations that will get you back to your packs with one rope. If you go up there, lug up about 40' of webbing to resling 'em....I'll post here if i get there before you!
By John Hegyes
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 4, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Fun stemming on the first pitch and great lie backing on the second pitch. One of my favorite shorter climbs in Red Rock. The climb starts just to the left of a cavernous tunnel through the rock. The rappels were from shrubs with lots of old slings.
By Jerry W
From: Rapid City, SD
Feb 3, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Awesome route!! First pitch is pretty stout for the grade, but the gear is all there.
Could it be the stiff old slings and cords we rapped from yesterday are the same ones that were there in 2005?? We forgot to bring up our rings and slings, but if you're going to get on this, taking up some replacement anchor material would be a good idea, and a great service. Anchors on the top of the second pitch extend roughly 6 feet from the tree that they're wrapped around. The top of the first pitch is a more typical setup (also around a tree).
By Andrew Carson
From: Wilson, WY
Mar 11, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I thought it was distinctly more difficult than any of the cruxes on Black Widow Hollow, so I'd call it some kind of 5.10, but that's just me. A worthy effort. Nice prayer flags in the next alcove to the right.
By brucelacroix
From: Portland, OR
Mar 28, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

If I do this again, I'll bring a #5 cam for P2. #4 was a little wobbly. Classic.
By Kurt Burt
Aug 6, 2010

Just did the route, whoever carved in to the start "route X> 5.9+ way harder" you are a douche. IF you can't climb the grades here in RR, or wherever for that matter, stay home. I spent an hour trying to erase what you did, and you are lower then the dog sh*t i found on the approach. So if you read this, have the balls to fess up and admit your mistakes and go clean up your mess. And if you want to call me out, just message me, I will meet you wherever you want.

Kurt "Burt" Arend
By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Dec 15, 2010
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Cool route, a bit of a sandbag I thought.. especially the move just below the roof on p1 where the crack in the corner pinches down to nothing...
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Dec 16, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

@Tavis- remembering that the route was named Nadia's Nine for Nadia Comaneci (thanks karsten), the romanian gymnast is key to realizing the true grade of the route. Joe never called this route a 5.9....
By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Dec 18, 2010

Nadia Comaneci
Nadia Comaneci


Perfect 10s.
By Phil Esra
Apr 24, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I found the p1 crux harder than those on Triassic Sands, Nightcrawler, Dreams of Wild Turkeys, Wholesome Fullback, Fiddler on the Roof, Yellow Brick Road. More like 10c than 5.9.
By Tim Hadfield
From: Steamboat Springs, Co
Apr 30, 2011

We met Mark Moore on the way up to tis route (the FA was done by Joe Herbst and him), and wished we would have picked his brain for beta. Definitely harder than the grade suggests... but a really fun route whatever the rating.
By Patrick Mulligan
Nov 16, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I climbed this route twice. Once retreating at the top of pitch one in a snowstorm and again to complete the route. Knowing where to go the second time dropped the rating by a solid number grade. On-sighting this was a real grunt for the grade.
By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 30, 2011

Awesome!!! I found both pitches stout for their respective grades.

A set of C3s was great to have on pitch 1. I found them more useful than my MasterCams on the bottom half due to their excessively narrow camming profile (you will want this). Tell your second to drag the big pieces for pitch 2 up through the tight slot. :) A #5 was a must-have while charging that big crack up higher. I thought the #4 I brought was useless until I topped out and used it as a back-up for the tatty sling anchor.

Lie-backing on pitch 2?!? In the 3-5" sections, I did a whole lot more hand stacking while moving and arm barring while resting and sussing....
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Apr 11, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

There are 2 distinct cruxes on pitch 1. If you figure out the "right" way to do them I believe the grade of 5.9 to be accurate, maybe 5.9+.
If you don't...its harder.
Looki around the cruxes are cryptic.

A very fun climb.

josh
By Canon
Dec 13, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

WEAR HELMETS ON THIS ROUTE!!!! The ledge below the roof on P1 has loose rock, as does the P1 belay, and while pulling the rope I took a shot to the dome from a rock that would have given my noggin' a floggin' if I had not had a helmet on.

I am very sorry to say I A0'd the lower crux of this route. For some reason, the move did not occur to me until I was checking it out on TR, which made it A LOT easier. The roof was very contortonist, but had great jams to help me work my feet around.
By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Apr 12, 2013
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

The grade on this thing is kind of an enigma. I thought it was 5.9 when I first climbed it (yesterday) then felt it was 9+ish when I climbed it today. Either way, my partner I climbed both this and Frigid Air Buttress with thought this had moves harder than anything on FAB. Not too sure this thing has a single .10 move on it, buuuut hell...9+ is nebulous enough that it covers just about anything :)

Get on this climb and enjoy. 10 minute(ish) walk from the car, great after work climb.
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 12, 2013

"Nadia's Ten" seems more appropriate, since that was her score. @John, it seems that Joe did rate the route 5.9, or else what is the nine in the route name for? Or is Joe's original name of the route just "Nadia's"?
By Larry DeAngelo
Administrator
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 12, 2013

George-- story is here:

pubpages.unh.edu/~lch/climb_05...
rockclimbing.com/forum/Climbin...
By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 12, 2013

I was under the impression this was a clever play on words and sports about Nadia Comaneci, the famous Romanian gymnast known for scoring the first perfect 10 at the 1976 Olympics. The route FA was in 1977.

You could be the stingy judge that gave her a 9 but everyone else would know her performance was really a 10. Hence this routes provenance. You can call it a 5.9 but when you climb it you will know it is really a 5.10.
By Mike Marmar
Jan 6, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Climbed this yesterday with good friends. The first pitch is one of the best pitches I've climbed anywhere. It has excellent protection (I think I placed a nut every 4 feet or so through the lower corner), technical moves on solid rock, and it requires a nice variety of technique. Gaining the chimney/corner above the p1 roof is an interesting exercise in flexibility and positioning!