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The Watchman
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Mythical Kings & Iguanas 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 600'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Brian Smoot & Bill Robbins. March 1985.
Page Views: 659
Submitted By: Gargano on Oct 24, 2012

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Mythical Kings & Iguanas ascends the large shaded ...
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Description 

Mythical Kings and Iguanas offers a fun and adventurous Zion outing, located in a great position on The Watchman. The climb mainly consists of handcracks and chimneys, with the exception of a few OW sections. The rock quality is mixed, yet solid for the majority of the route.

Those looking for something off-the-beaten-path that is scrappy, and moderate in grade, will find this to be a worthy outing. The view of Zion Canyon from the top is outstanding.

P1: Hands to big hands. Stemming. Climb to a bushy ledge. Gear anchor. 9+

P2: OW flare to splitter hands. Reach deep, past sharp rock, for solid jams and good gear. Climb to pod/cave. Gear anchor. 10-

P3: Left onto face, and up mixed cracks. Climb to a large ledge. Bolted anchors on left side. 8

P4: Follow right crack system. Chimney and stemming. Climb to ledge with one bolt. 8

P5: Climb low-angle OW. Natural anchor. 8

P6: Low-angle broken terrain and cracks. Natural Anchor. 6


Location 

The route is located on the northeast face of The Watchman, approximately 100' east of the north ridge shoulder on the formation. Park in the Zion Canyon Visitor's Center lot and head southeast towards the shuttle parking lot. Follow an obvious wash from the shuttle lot, skirting cliff bands to stay on the east side of the north ridge shoulder. Keep an eye out for the clearest path through the scrub and head uphill to the prominent northeast corner of the formation.

The easiest way to spot the route is to look for the handcrack splitting the face (P2) that ascends from a bushy ledge about one pitch up. Follow the obvious line from the ground.

R1: Double rope. 60m. Walk to the west side of the formation and look for slings on a tree.

R2: Double rope. 60m. Drop through a notch in the north side of the formation. Look for slings on a tree. This one drops you off on the top of the north ridge shoulder.

R3: Double rope. 60m. Walk to the east side of the ridge and look for slings on a tree. This one drops you at the base of the route. Watch for rope drag.


Protection 

Standard desert rack to 5". Extra hand-sized pieces. There are wide sections that will take gear to 7"; however, it's optional.

P1: Gear anchor.
P2: Gear anchor.
P3: Bolted anchor to the left.
P4: Single bolt.
P5: Natural anchor.

Raps on trees and slings.



Photos of Mythical Kings & Iguanas Slideshow Add Photo
Nathan on the top of Mythical Kings & Iguanas.  <br /> <br />Photo: Corey Gargano
Nathan on the top of Mythical Kings & Iguanas.

P...
Route Overlay for Mythical Kings And Iguanas
BETA PHOTO: Route Overlay for Mythical Kings And Iguanas
View from the base of Mythical Kings & Iguanas. Look for the crack splitting the face 2/3rds the way up the photo.  <br /> <br />Photo: Corey Gargano
BETA PHOTO: View from the base of Mythical Kings & Iguanas. Lo...
Scramble through brush. Grovel into flare. P2.  <br /> <br />Photo: Nathan Scherneck
Scramble through brush. Grovel into flare. P2.

P...
Nathan scopes P3 from the belay cave.  <br /> <br />Photo: Corey Gargano
Nathan scopes P3 from the belay cave.

Photo: Cor...
Nathan following the chimney on P4.  <br /> <br />Photo: Corey Gargano
Nathan following the chimney on P4.

Photo: Corey...
Route Overlay (2) for Mythical Kings And Iguanas
BETA PHOTO: Route Overlay (2) for Mythical Kings And Iguanas
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