A small group of boulderers have spent a good chunk of time establishing problems around Mystic, Connecticut. This group has consisted of a handful of folks from Southeastern and Central Connecticut, Rhode Island, and Massachusetts. The rock around Mystic is a beautiful, usually solid, gneiss with an amazing 12 grit texture. This amazing rock is highly featured with good edges, pockets, crimps, and slopers. The rock tends to be VERY steep in some spots. This is especially true for the Stoddard Hill State Park, the Rift Valley, the Dark Hollow Cave, and the Winding Hollow Areas. These are rocks that rock climbers dream about.
The coastal weather of this region helps in keep conditions good. When the rest of New England is getting snow, the warm Gulf Stream air from the nearby ocean keeps the white stuff away. That same ocean climate keeps things warm and sunny too. During the more temperate times when its hot inland, the sea breeze kicks in and cools things down in the evening. The bouldering areas in Mystic are a great way to get into these amazing mystical forests that surround this historic seaport town.
All the bouldering areas in Mystic are within 15 minutes of one another in various sectors around Mystic, Groton, and Ledyard off of Route 184. The bouldering in Mystic is limited. Access is a REAL concern in some areas here as well. Tread lightly as you can. As most boulderers know carrying a huge pad in public, the bouldering life style is not the most commonly recognized and understood form of recreation here in America. However, we are hopefully making good steps in changing that. Maybe someday bouldering will be considered a more common, accepted, and celebrated sport like in Europe. This site's purpose is to help us as climbers preserve some knowledge of what has been done for the future Mystic climbers. The site contains a few topos and pictures of the local bouldering spots. New areas are being found regularly. Some of these have good access. This site, by Greg Shyloski, provided all content and will keep the scene informed as much as possible: www.freewebs.com/mysticbouldering/.
There are good amounts of bouldering around mystic.
Start standing on the ground with your right hand on a small crimp and your left hand on the undercling arete. Put your right foot up on a small chip and stick the starting holds of Ghost Face and continue up Ghost Face.Another project is to start on Ghost Face (Low) and finish up Ghost Face Killer which is another amazing undone line....[more]Browse More Classics in CT
The pioneer of Mystic bouldering has moved on to new conquests. I live in Westerly which is just down the road. I don't climb around Mystic nearly as much as I would like to but I know many of the areas so if anyones in the area and wants a spot I'd be more than happy to provide one and add a pad to the pile. Thanks to Shylo's amazing abilities in finding killer rock I personally have more projects around Mystic than I care to admit.