Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Capitol Gorge
Select Route:
Capitol Gorgeous  T 
Classic Handcrack T 
False Premonitions  T 
Mystery Splitter T 
Seamus Chill T 
Unnamed 5.12 T 

Mystery Splitter 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Trad, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: 
Season: afternoon sun
Page Views: 492
Submitted By: camhead on Jun 28, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

Short, beautiful splitter located just right of an arete. Looks like harder version of Indian Creek's "Swedin Ringle."

Location 

On the left wall of Capitol Gorge as you enter the canyon on the Scenic Drive. It is visible from the parking lot if you look closely. From the point that the Drive turns to dirt, walk up a wash, then follow an occasionally cairned trail up to the cliffline.

Protection 

Mostly .5 camalots.


Comments on Mystery Splitter Add Comment
Show which comments
By bvb
Feb 3, 2013
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13

I did this route in 1994 with a massive group of hecklers questioning my manhood. At the time the bolting situation in the park was sketchy, and I worked at the park and was sort of in charge of enforcing climbing regs, so I never reported it. Duh. It's a great splitter. Might be more like 12c or 12d, but I could never rate that stuff. Very finger size dependent. If you've got Jimmy Deans it'll feel easier. Needs more ascents for a real consensus. We would leave a TR on the thing for weeks at a time and go run laps on it after work. I thought I put in three bolts, not two? Rawl 5-piece with Metolius SS hangers?

Steve Potter flashed this the day we got the bolts in. Eve Tallman, Chris Trudeau, John Wason, Sharon Wason, and Todd Gordon were also there to witness the debacle.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!