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Capitol Gorge
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Capitol Gorgeous  
Classic Handcrack 
False Premonitions  
Mystery Splitter 
Seamus Chill 
Unnamed 5.12 

Mystery Splitter 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Trad, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c [details]
FA: 
Season: afternoon sun
Page Views: 297
Submitted By: camhead on Jun 28, 2012
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Description 

Short, beautiful splitter located just right of an arete. Looks like harder version of Indian Creek's "Swedin Ringle."


Location 

On the left wall of Capitol Gorge as you enter the canyon on the Scenic Drive. It is visible from the parking lot if you look closely. From the point that the Drive turns to dirt, walk up a wash, then follow an occasionally cairned trail up to the cliffline.


Protection 

Mostly .5 camalots.



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By bvb
Feb 3, 2013

I did this route in 1994. At the time the bolting situation in the park was sketchy, and I worked at the park and was sort of in charge of enforcing climbing regs, so I never reported it. Duh. It's a great splitter. Might be more like 12c or 12d, but I could never rate that stuff. Very finger size dependent. If you've got Jimmy Deans it'll feel easier. Needs more ascents for a real consensus. We would leave a TR on the thing for weeks at a time and go run laps on it after work. I thought I put in three bolts, not two? Rawl 5-peice with Metolius SS hangers?