Andrew Taylor leading Mystery Hole 5.10a. Photo by...
An interesting yet not sustained 5.10a to the left of the odvious chimney left of Saviour Heart. Lots of lateral movement makes this climb through provoking and exciting on lead.
Three bolts to a 3 bolts anchor atop the rock, bring long slings to top rope, which can be accessed by going around and up way to the right.In classic Far Side fashion, only the harder moves are bolted.
This climb goes straight up through the bolts to the deep Hueco by the last bolt. From there you can continue straight up (10+) or dodge to the right onto the shoulder of the rock (slab) which limits the difficulty to 5.9+/5.10-.
By eric berghorn From: Calistoga,CA Dec 27, 2009 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a
The correct name for this climb is "Mystery Hole" according to a reliable source and the name "5.9" on this site does not do it justice. Rock quality varies greatly at all the sectors of Mt. St. Helena, Table Rock, The Palisades, etc. While the climbing is great fun and featured at the chossier areas IMO, the actual quality of rock does not get any better than in this area, or on this short but sweet route...
By Floyd Hayes Sep 27, 2010 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+18E1 5a
Actually there are four bolts, not three. The fourth is hidden just above the "mystery hole"--I didn't see it until it was in front of my face. I took the easy finish to the right after the fourth bolt and didn't encounter anything that felt harder than 5.9. Next time I'll finish directly above the fourth bolt.
I always like this route. I thought it was about right at a 5.8+ rating, but 5.9 is probably in line with the other ratings at here. I always referred to it as "Ringtail" because for a couple of summers there was a resident ringtail cat living in the so-called "Mystery Hole".
This route started out fun. After clipping the second bolt I headed upwards to hit what I believe to be the crux, with no bolt in sight. It was a pretty gnarly move up to the deep hueco and I decided against it and scurried to the side. If I had fallen after that point I would have grounded for sure.
Thompson: Try Table Scraps or Table Rock for routes in this range that are reasonably bolted and more fun IMO.
By Floyd Hayes Mar 11, 2013 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+18E1 5a
Thompson and Rough, this is really a great route! And amply protected with four bolts. After leading it a second time and continuing directly up and left above the last bolt, I think it's about 5.10a with two cruxes, one just below the mystery hole and one just above it. Don't skip climbing the face above the last bolt by exiting to the right!