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The Far Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
18NY (aka The Chickens are Breastless) T,S 
At Last S 
Atlas S 
Atlas Shrugged S 
Baby Atlas (aka The Chickens are Restless) S 
Better Eat Your Wheaties T,S 
Boneless Chicken Ranch T 
Bushy Crack T 
Cereal Killer S 
Chief, The S,TR 
Continental Drift Whiplash T 
Curse of Madame C S 
Death to the Right T 
Far aka Let's Climb Naked S 
Far Out S 
Far Side Chimney T 
Farther S 
Farthing, The T 
Feelin' Your Oats T 
Gorilla Finishing School S 
Hummingbird Spire, N. Face T 
Initiation Rite T 
Jardinero S 
Koka T 
Kola S 
Left Behind T 
Lichen It T 
Mystery Hole S,TR 
Near Side Chimney T 
New Tradition S,TR 
Night of the Crash Test Dummies S 
Old Spice T 
Old Tradition T 
Pile, The T 
Planet of the Grapes 5.6 T 
Rite of Passage T 
Saviour Heart T,S 
Scorpio Rising  S 
Separation Anxiety S,TR 
Seymour Frishberg T 
Shute-Mills Route S 
Something Good S,TR 
Spellcaster S 
Sport Roof Left S 
Sport Roof Right S 
Step To The Left T,S 
Synchronicity S 
Tradfest T 
Two-Bolt Slab T,S 
War Party S,TR 

Mystery Hole 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jeff Follet
Page Views: 1,774
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Apr 12, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Andrew Taylor leading Mystery Hole 5.10a. Photo by...


An interesting yet not sustained 5.10a to the left of the odvious chimney left of Saviour Heart. Lots of lateral movement makes this climb through provoking and exciting on lead.


Three bolts to a 3 bolts anchor atop the rock, bring long slings to top rope, which can be accessed by going around and up way to the right.In classic Far Side fashion, only the harder moves are bolted.

Photos of Mystery Hole Slideshow Add Photo
Tonny Bubb finishes up the un-nammed face just lef...
Tonny Bubb finishes up the un-nammed face just lef...
Eric Berghorn at the Far Side.
Eric Berghorn at the Far Side.
Fun climb! Took the left way up which I felt makes...
Fun climb! Took the left way up which I felt makes...

Comments on Mystery Hole Add Comment
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 22, 2002

This climb goes straight up through the bolts to the deep Hueco by the last bolt. From there you can continue straight up (10+) or dodge to the right onto the shoulder of the rock (slab) which limits the difficulty to 5.9+/5.10-.
By eric berghorn
From: Calistoga,CA
Dec 27, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The correct name for this climb is "Mystery Hole" according to a reliable source and the name "5.9" on this site does not do it justice. Rock quality varies greatly at all the sectors of Mt. St. Helena, Table Rock, The Palisades, etc. While the climbing is great fun and featured at the chossier areas IMO, the actual quality of rock does not get any better than in this area, or on this short but sweet route...
By Floyd Hayes
Sep 27, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Actually there are four bolts, not three. The fourth is hidden just above the "mystery hole"--I didn't see it until it was in front of my face. I took the easy finish to the right after the fourth bolt and didn't encounter anything that felt harder than 5.9. Next time I'll finish directly above the fourth bolt.
By outdooreric
From: La Mesa, CA
Feb 9, 2011

I always like this route. I thought it was about right at a 5.8+ rating, but 5.9 is probably in line with the other ratings at here. I always referred to it as "Ringtail" because for a couple of summers there was a resident ringtail cat living in the so-called "Mystery Hole".
By Thompson
From: Vallejo, CA
Oct 7, 2012

This route started out fun. After clipping the second bolt I headed upwards to hit what I believe to be the crux, with no bolt in sight. It was a pretty gnarly move up to the deep hueco and I decided against it and scurried to the side. If I had fallen after that point I would have grounded for sure.
By Rough
Oct 8, 2012

Thompson: Try Table Scraps or Table Rock for routes in this range that are reasonably bolted and more fun IMO.
By Floyd Hayes
Mar 11, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Thompson and Rough, this is really a great route! And amply protected with four bolts. After leading it a second time and continuing directly up and left above the last bolt, I think it's about 5.10a with two cruxes, one just below the mystery hole and one just above it. Don't skip climbing the face above the last bolt by exiting to the right!
By Pat H
From: Berkeley, CA
May 29, 2013

For the longest time I thought the Mystery Hole route wasn't listed on MP until I realized it was listed as "5.9"
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