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mystery finger crack boulder
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By fat cow
From Salinas, CA
May 23, 2010
perfect seam

just up the road from the big bend bouldering area a few hundred yards and behind the large group campsite with the wooden awning. behind that camp site into valley up the stream bed a quarter/half mile, (same start as rear approach to the lighthouse tower on the cliffs above, but stay in left valley) anyone know what this boulder problem might be called. there was chalk on it for about the first half, over hung probably 50 degrees. tall bad landing in the beginning, then a flat good landing but highball for sure.

perfect seam
perfect seam


closer
closer


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By matthewWallace
From plymouth, nh
May 24, 2010
Sticking the pinch on the V5 variation. self portrait.

Post this question under the appropriate state section and you might get more responses.

This thing looks sweet!


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By camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Sep 15, 2011
You stay away from mah pig!

Not sure what it's called, not been on it, but I recall quite a few Moab locals talking about it over the past years. I think it's around v4 or so.


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By fat cow
From Salinas, CA
Dec 16, 2011
perfect seam

a V4 would be a ladder compared to this. I don't know of many V4s with no foot holds for 15 feet, overhung 50 degrees and just a thin finger seam in smooth sandstone... I was bouldering about V4- V5 when i stumbled upon this and it looked like the hardest boulder problem imaginable. I couldn't get my feet off the ground... maybe my locks are weak though and someone with super crack technique could send like it was a V4?


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By fat cow
From Salinas, CA
Dec 16, 2011
perfect seam

also i don't know how to switch this over to the moab area, can someone do that, maybe an administrator? V4, damn i guess it's possible i would be shocked though camhead


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By fat cow
From Salinas, CA
Dec 17, 2011
perfect seam

By your further description I'm thinking we are describing different boulders. The boulder would be, starting at big bend bouldering pullout, going toward the city of Moab and away from Castle Valley. If you take a look at this map (www.mountainproject.com/scripts/AreaMap.php?id=105716790) and zoom in you can see the obvious big bend where the boulder area is as well as Moose Park. Across from Moose Park there is a short dirt road that leads to a wooden pavilion which is a large group campsite. up the wash (looks like a dried stream) with talus slopes on both sides into the valley behind that campsite a ways is where we found that boulder, does it still sound like the same one?


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By fat cow
From Salinas, CA
Dec 17, 2011
perfect seam

Definitely awesome. That whole valley back there was a treasure trove of boulders some of them highballs. They are a bit spread out, and it would be a bit of a hike with pads but if you had a few people you could make it a hell of a good time. Like i said there was some chalk on the first few feet of that particular problem, so I'm wondering if it was someones project. I can't imagine that valley hasn't been explored thoroughly by locals, but who knows with 10 step access to big bend bouldering right there. I'm still kicking myself for not having brought any pads or shoes with that day, but everything was soaked from a whole nights rain. Damn now I'm inspired again to get back to Moab...


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By Howrad McGreehan
Oct 2, 2012

This thing looks AWESOME.


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By Kevin Hadfield
From Glenwood Springs, CO
Oct 2, 2012
Photo by Grant Bryans.

Sick! So this is between Moab and Big Bend? I think the V4 that was previously mentioned refers to a boulder in a wash beyond Big Bend going toward Castle Valley that Lisa Hathaway? FA'd a couple years back... This looks SICK!!!


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By CJC
Oct 2, 2012

wow nice find

looks like C1 to me :-p


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By Howrad McGreehan
Oct 4, 2012

Is that chalk up on the slopey edge? Or is it some weird lighting?


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By fat cow
From Salinas, CA
Aug 12, 2013
perfect seam

it looks like chalk in the picture for sure. I never noticed it until you just pointed it out. There is almost no way though, because that would be a huge mark and we would have noticed it when actually there. Plus it was raining like crazyand i think it would have been washed off... maybe


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