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Mystery Boulder Problems in Rumney, HELP!!!!
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By matthewWallace
From plymouth, nh
Apr 17, 2014
Sticking the pinch on the V5 variation. self portrait.

I was on Newenglandbouldering.com and they had compiled a list of hard boulder problems in the northeast. In that list is a V11 called "Tire Swing" in Rumney, does anybody have any info about this route? I have never heard of it... I can't climb this hard but am very curious because it is a complete mystery.


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By matthewWallace
From plymouth, nh
Apr 17, 2014
Sticking the pinch on the V5 variation. self portrait.

A couple other routes in question at rumney

Sam See Hold - v6 - FA Sam Enright (?)
Spun - v9
Thing in the Woods - v9


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By Ian McAfee
From Nashua, NH
Apr 17, 2014

There's also The Baptism v10/v11 that is a mystery www.climberism.com/lost-in-north-america-episode-1-rumney-nh>>>


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By matthewWallace
From plymouth, nh
Apr 17, 2014
Sticking the pinch on the V5 variation. self portrait.

The Baptism is located at Sculptured Rocks which is right down the road from Rumney in a town called Hebron.


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By Joe M.
Apr 18, 2014

Is the Baptism that problem over the water? That looked like a cool problem.


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By matthewWallace
From plymouth, nh
Apr 18, 2014
Sticking the pinch on the V5 variation. self portrait.

Yeah it is over water that is roughly 3-4 feet deep


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By Joe M.
Apr 18, 2014

I didn't realize the water was that shallow!


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By Joe M.
Apr 21, 2014

Have you had any luck with finding info on these problems?


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By matthewWallace
From plymouth, nh
Apr 25, 2014
Sticking the pinch on the V5 variation. self portrait.

Only on Things in the Woods, seems to be what was referred to as "Unknown" located under the monsters from the id crag. And shady info that Tire Swing was a crimp dyne problem somewhere in the area of the blackjack boulder


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By Joe M.
Apr 26, 2014

Let me ask around some more, and see if we can't figure this out.


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By Joe M.
Apr 28, 2014

Got some info from Ryan who did the FAs of Tire Swing and Spun:

Spun climbs out of a hole. It's over in the first parking lot area. Not far off the trail if your hiking up to the crag there's a boulder on your right and when you walk upto it, it actually goes underground kinda like a cave and you climb out of it.

Tire swing is around there or over in the black jacks. Tire swing I think is a one or 2 move wonder.

Not sure if this helps or not. He said he lives in Utah now and thought he could find them if he were in NH...


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By matthewWallace
From plymouth, nh
Apr 28, 2014
Sticking the pinch on the V5 variation. self portrait.

Cool, I think I know what he is referring to for SPUN I'll get a photo of it and shoot it over to him and see if he can verify it for us.

He had told me he thinks Tire Swing was a crimpy dyno in the blackjack area, after some exploring this morning I am thinking it might be up behind and right of Sprageasaurus, I am going to go back with a camera and get a photo and will pass it off to Ryan to verify for us. Thanks for the help!!


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By Joe M.
Apr 28, 2014

Nice, can't wait to see the pics!


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By eddysamson
Apr 28, 2014

If anyone is interested I cleaned the top out for what may be a new V7(6?) on the Ricochet boulder last fall. Its directly to the right of the V3 called Ricochet, around the left from the train track problems.

This problem was pointed out to me by an old timer years ago who said he was pretty sure no one had done it. I had projected it for years but it had an extremely hard top out. Cleaned it up back in November and finished it finally. Need to go back and finish the clean job, its not perfect.

Climb starts on a very sharp, jagged-looking starting hold with a right foot. Goes right hand to a crimp that looks like a pocket almost, left hand throws out to a side pull, big move (or use a sharp intermediate sidepull) to gain a slopey jug on the top, walk up the right side and get your heel up towards Cilley Groove (the V4) to finish. Excellent problem.


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By Joe M.
Apr 28, 2014

eddysamson, didn't I see a video of your problem somewhere???


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By eddysamson
Apr 28, 2014

I don't have video of when I sent it, a friend and I had video about 3-4 years ago of the beta but not the finish, but that was only posted on Facebook to our friends so you probably wouldn't have seen it. Last I looked for the video on Facebook I couldn't find it for some reason or else I would share.


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By eddysamson
Apr 28, 2014

Oh I found the video. Here's a link:

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=1429615111328&l=5288270>>>

(minor language warning)

I start the problem slightly differently in the vid, used a less-sharp start hold for my left hand.

My foot beta is also wrong for the move I fall on at the end. You can see how its to the right of Ricochet here though.

EDIT: Cant respond to M Sprague since I'm new and apparently have a post limit, but yes looks like you are correct. I always thought that climb was a V3 so I thought it was Ricochet! Also to Joe M. (if you see this) any idea what climb was in the video you are thinking of? Same climb? I'm really interested to know if anyone else has got on it or finished it.


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By Joe M.
Apr 28, 2014

That's not the video I was thinking of, but the problem looks cool!


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By M Sprague
Administrator
From New England
Apr 28, 2014
Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lichen covered look from scrubbing a new route.

eddysamson wrote:
... Its directly to the right of the V3 called Ricochet, around the left from the train track problems. ...



Ricochet is to the right of the train track problems. In the video, it looks to me like you are climbing just to the right of Cilley Flakes,

on Cilley Groove


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By Joe M.
Apr 28, 2014

Maybe the guidebook author had his left and right mixed up???


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By eddysamson
Apr 28, 2014

You're right it is Cilley Flake on the left. I added it on the Ricochet Boulder page. Going to go back and finish the clean job on the top out next time I'm there.


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By Joe M.
Apr 28, 2014

Was Mark saying your problem is Cilley Groove?


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By eddysamson
Apr 28, 2014

No he was saying I got the climb to the left of it wrong. Its not Cilley Groove. Its to the left of that on the corner. I posted some close ups of the first 2 holds on the page I made for it. Plus you can see I'm not on Cilley Groove in the video.


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By M Sprague
Administrator
From New England
Apr 29, 2014
Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lichen covered look from scrubbing a new route.

I was thinking it was a variation on CG and most likely climbed before, but if you feel it is a distinct line and came up with a name for it, that is fine. First recorded ascent is cool.

You can't really go on how vegetated a line is to know if it was climbed previously though. If there is no recorded information you have to look more at the condition of the rock, the location, who else has been there, and give it an educated guess. I had the face with the seams around to the left of Cilley Flake completely spotless at one time and climbed a few lines there, but now it looks like it has never been climbed. People have been hanging out next to that boulder, smoking bowls and staring at the holds and climbing them for decades. In absence of other information, scrub it up, send it and give it a name IMO.


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