Mystery 13 5.10a/b
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Good page? (1 like)   |
| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a/b [details] |
| FA: | ??? |
| Season: | spring summer or fall |
| Submitted By: | Cale Farnham on Sep 18, 2009 |
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Eric stolkin'up before the 1st pitch.
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Description Got this name from the mysterious 13 that was written on the rock. Great line just right of the The White Dike.
P1. Climbs 60 feet to a nice ledge right before the crux.
P2. 100 feet. climbs the left-facing dihedral up a thin and at times shallow seam. After the dihedral, it tops out on another great ledge below a nice hand crack a bit to the right.
P3. 100 feet. Climbs the hand crack up to a small traverse then up a fairly wide and somewhat unprotectable chimney. Scramble 20 feet above the chimney for a good belay next to the top of The White Dike!
Stellar and adventurous climbing! note: there are old slings for raps above The White Dike and we added a bomber nut for extra pro which is equalized with the slings!
Location Just right 10 feet of the The White Dike.
Protection Standard rack. There were 2 old and rotted bolts on this line as well as an old piton? Not any of them were trustable!!
Eric closing in on the top of P1.
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Scotty at the crux section of P2. Stellar, left-fa...
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Eric stolkin' up for P1!
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Great 2nd pitch. Turn the rooflet and keep cruisin...
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Third pitch chimney.
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3rd pitch crack variation on south face.
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By Cale Farnham
From: loveland,CO
Sep 18, 2009
| Great route and good pro. Some spicy sections but very adventurous and very fun! Plan to get some rap bolts on this very soon!! |
By Scott Matz
From: Loveland, CO
Sep 20, 2009
| The second pitch is the bread and butta. I wouldn't say it's better than Slipstream but an awesome airy pitch. At the second belay, we all look up and seen 13 Tally marks under a small roof, spooky!!! |
By Scott Matz
From: Loveland, CO
Sep 12, 2010
| Did the second ascent with Phil and Eric. I would re-rate this at 10a for sure, requiring good smearing to round the roof. |
By Eric Winne
Sep 16, 2010
rating: 5.10a/b PG13
| One of better routes in the BTC, sound rock in comparison to the majority of the canyon. Speak up if you know who did the FA. rap/belay anchors wouldn't hurt a bit. |
By Andy Maguire
From: Ft. Collins CO
Mar 10, 2012
| Great dihedral pitch! Really aesthetic position in the canyon. Without getting too technical, I'm giving it a 5.10a+. |
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