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YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: JSt,EFR,'06
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 579
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Mar 7, 2006
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Derek finishing clean.


Interesting crux.


This route is on the upper left end of The Griddle. The route like many here is short but packs a lot of climbing in a short distance.



Photos of Myopic Slideshow Add Photo
Not long in length but it ain't no walk in the park.  Andy taking care of business.
Not long in length but it ain't no walk in the par...
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By Scott Tucker
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 4, 2007
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c

The anchors on this climb seem to be missing in action. There are bolts but no hangers or chains. You can easily use the anchors on Sight Unseen to the left. But it's nice to know this before, say, leading Myopic while someone else is toproping Blinded by the Light.

By Jimbo
Feb 7, 2007

These two routes do share the same anchors. Which you should have been able to see from the ground. Besides it's not too hard to set two ropes on one set of anchors.
However, if you want to go out and drill a seperate anchor for Myopic, feel free.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Jan 8, 2011

Did this again today and found it more fun than I remember. Still just worth doing and the finger locks are fun.

By Kemper Brightman
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 12, 2013

After doing this route a few times, I've begun to wonder about a more direct line through the bottom to the first bulge. Instead of starting left like the climb currently does, this line would head directly over the first bulge using a left facing rail and a pocket with good opposing feet and a few crimps. It would definitely need cleaning, but it seems like it could add some more fun moves close to the grade. Probably more work than it's worth, since the climb is fun as is, but i though I'd throw it out there any way in case others had seen the same thing.